Dressing Like a Man in 2010
Menswear presentations for Spring/Summer 2010 have come to a close in Milan (and begin this week in Paris), but the clothes are sure to keep people talking for weeks. While presentations themselves remained relatively understated (a number of designers, including Gareth Pugh and Yohji Yamamoto, sat this season out), the fashion was anything but subdued. If designers have their way, Spring 2010 will welcome the introduction of the man clutch (apparently the next generation of man purse, along with tiny fanny packs); not to mention men will be stocking up on prints and pinstripes as well as cropped trousers by the truck load. Although we’re guessing that the eye-patches and swords slung at the hips of models on Vivienne Westwood's pirate chic runway will likely be left by fashion's wayside.
Also noteworthy this season: the New York Times' revelation that male models do diet (turns out mannequin A. J. Abualrub dropped 30 pounds in order to be able to slip into designs like Roberto Cavalli's " scuba pant"). Speaking of models, Nick Cave scion and model Jethro Cave introduced the fashion set to his oversized Gumby earring, while, despite rumors to the contrary, Madonna failed to make an appearance on the D&G catwalk alongside her beau, Jesus Luz.
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Meanwhile, whereas last season YSL's Stefano Pilati teamed with actor Michael Pitt for a short film alternative to a runway show, this year he enlisted the help of French director, actor and writer Samuel Benchetrit and his son, Jules, for his latest cinematic presentation. And John Malkovich has made an unexpected return to fashion design (his debut was back in 2002 with a line called Uncle Kimono) with a line boasting an even more bizarre moniker—that of Technobohemian (the line debuted at the White Homme trade fair, which opened in conjunction with collection presentations this past week). For a look at all of the trends taking shape on Milan's runways - tunics and two-toned shoes included - view our gallery.
Alisa Gould-Simon is a Brooklyn-based freelance writer. She also covers fashion and culture for BlackBook, New York magazine, and PAPER among other publications.