07.28.09 7:14 PM ET
Marcella Hazan is a highly respected and beloved Italian cooking teacher and cookbook author. She is the author of Marcella's Italian Kitchen, Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking, Marcella Cucina, and Marcella Says.... The recipient of two Lifetime Achievement Awards (from the James Beard Foundation in 2000, and the International Association of Culianry Professionals in 2004) and a knighthood from her home country, Marcella lives in Longboat Key, Florida, with her husband, Victor, her lifelong collaborator and writing partner, himself an authority on Italian food and wine.
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Raising the bar on braised beef short ribs.
Every bite of Edna Lewis’s recipe for braised beef short ribs with tomatoes, garlic, and onions is a bite of happiness. These long-cooked short ribs, so easy to make, so succulent that you want to swoon with pleasure, reveal how closely the principles and methods of good cooking from America’s South resemble the simple hearty cooking of an Italian country kitchen.
Oliveto in Oakland, California, has only one flaw: It’s not open 365 days a year.
My test of a restaurant’s food is to ask “How soon after having a meal there would I want to go back?” If I lived in the San Francisco Bay area, I could eat at Oliveto in Oakland every day. Paul Canales, Oliveto’s chef, has found and taken unfailing command of what everyone who cooks struggles to discover: the straight road to pure, sincere, deeply satisfying flavor. I could choose from one of Paul’s menus by throwing a dart at it, knowing I could never make a mistake.
Read on for the broadest and most accurate survey of regional Italian cooking.
The recipes gathered by Anna Gosetti Della Salda in Le Ricette Regionali Italiane are the real thing, the cooking practiced by generations of Italian families in every one of the country’s regions. The clear and accurate recipes in its pages represent the very conscience of Italian flavor; it is worth learning the language to read and use them.
The market at Rialto, in Venice, is the Guggenheim of food.
Every day, every hour that one spends in Venice is an experience that life in no other city can match. Of all its joys, the greatest may be shopping the 1,000-year-old fresh-air market at Rialto, brimming with seafood glistening with the Adriatic waters from which it may have been taken only hours before, the produce stalls displaying fruits and vegetables that have traveled no farther than the farm islands of the Venetian lagoon whose crops are perpetually swept by savory briny breezes.