The culinary frontrunner behind the bouchon movement tells us what he’s loving right now.
Chris Leahy
Chris Leahy began his distinctive culinary career in his hometown of St. Louis before moving to New York to work under the famed Daniel Boulud at DB Bistro Moderne. Believing that premier chefs need to experience Europe, Leahy then moved to London where he landed at Gordon Ramsey’s Michelin starred Connaught before transferring to Ramsey’s award-winning gastro-pub North Gate & The Junction Tavern. Leahy continued to train under esteemed European chefs, including Raymond Blanc and Michael and Albert Roux, and eventually returned to New York to take the helm at Laurent Tourondel’s BLT Prime, where he maintained the position of executive chef for over five years. This fall, Francois Latapie (formerly of La Goulue) and real estate developer Penny Bradley invited Leahy to join them in opening Lyon, a modern day bouchon in the West Village. At Lyon, Leahy showcases a unique approach to a classic Lyonnais bouchon, and the menu features house-made terrines and sausages, and dishes that offer local and seasonal ingredients combined with classic French techniques and imports.
Recipe
Turn up the heat during these frigid winter months with a hearty dish that is bursting with flavor.
Lidia Bastianich's Broccoli Rabe and Sausage. I love Lydia’s simple recipe for broccoli rabe and sausage because it’s simple to prepare and yet packed full of flavor. The bitterness of the broccoli rabe goes perfectly with the sweet Italian sausage, and the chili flakes add just the right amount of heat. I actually prepare something quite similar at Lyon to accompany a lamb shank, but instead of sweet Italian sausage I use a spicy merguez with some bitter greens. This type of dish is the best to eat on a cold winter day.
Restaurant
Robuchon fanatics step aside—this spot in France is run by a brood of very talented women that will not leave you disappointed.
Bouchon de Filles in Lyon, France. When I was planning the menu for Lyon, the owners Francois Latapie and Penny Bradley took me on an extensive eating tour of the region. Breakfast of tripe was followed by trips to the market, two lunches of Lyonnais salads and quenelles, and two dinners of more of the same. However, there was one that really stood out—Bouchon de Filles—and I had perhaps what I would call one of the best meals of my life. This restaurant is run entirely by women, and it is an excellent representation of an updated bouchon—the food, service and atmosphere are all amazing. I only wish I lived closer, and can’t wait to go back with my family.
Cookbook
We are in the age of all things pig, and this cookbook shares insiders' tips, tricks and recipes so you can bring your favorite pork dishes to the table for all to enjoy.
Pork & Sons by Stephane Reynaud. This book shares one man’s family secrets of butchering and utilizing the entire pig, secrets that have been passed down from generations of French butchers. It’s inspiring, and really influenced me when I was studying the time honored profession of charcuterie. The recipes Stephane shares, from blood sausage to braised pork, share so many tricks of the trade. I still pull from this book when making terrines, sausages, and other charcuterie.
Food Destination
Hankering for some sun and sand right here in the States? Hawaii may just be your spot.
My wife and I love to vacation anywhere a nice warm, sandy beach is nearby. Right now our kids are too young to bring to the beach—our younger daughter is only one month old!—but I look forward to the day when we are able to take our kids to run around and play in the surf while we hang out and relax in our lounge chairs. Our first beach vacation with the family will probably be somewhere in Hawaii. We have a friend with a house in Lani Kai, Oahu, and it’s so relaxing there.