A Taste of Polish-Modernist Cuisine
The National Post's Shinan Govani on the Applebaum-Crittenden cookbook:
From A Polish Country House Kitchen is an unexpected treasure trove. And from the minds of two people I didn’t exactly expect to be putting out a cookbook. Not only career-gal Crittenden, but her kitchen ally Anne Applebaum. The latter is a foreign affairs columnist who has served as the Warsaw correspondent for The Economist and is, moreover, the author of the Pulitzer-winning Gulag: A History. (In other words, Applebaum can tell you about the fall of Communism while fixing you a plate of pierogis with wild mushroom and sauerkraut filling!)
Not only is the book itself handsome in the way an ebook can never be — as most of those who turned out to fete Crittenden and Applebaum at Toronto’s Cookbook Shop for a party on Sunday agreed — but it’s also a forward-gallop into a cuisine that hasn’t had its 15 minutes. At times, it’s even been maligned. It’s Po-Mo, I dare say — Polish-modernist!