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09.29.13

Céline's New Look

In a shocking turn, minimalist Phoebe Philo presented a bold new aesthetic for Céline next spring.

Things got loud at Céline on Sunday. Jam-packed with abstract art-inspired prints, a-line chiffon pleated skirts peeking out from brush-stroaked tunics, and coats featuring oversized collars, creative director Phoebe Philo said the collection was all about "power to women."

The clothes strayed away from Philo's typical muted color palette -- this time sending pieces in slews of reds, blues, yellows, and greens down the runway, resembling splashes of paint. The show notes noted that Philo's main inspiration was the book Pour L'Amour de Paris, images of graffiti shot by Hungarian photographer Brassai, which was evident in pieces like a neoprene-seeming red and blue short-sleeve top, a black and white intricately-printed coat, and a flowing blue skirt paired with a loosely hanging, O-shaped belt.

As usual, Philo nailed the accessories, adding a bit of an artsy, creative spin on her classic -- and insanely popular -- leather handbags, booties, and cool, geometric jewelry. The clutches came decorated with a long train of leather fringes and simple leather mules, and sling-backs featured heels in the shape of silver balls or wooden rectangles.

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Jacques Brinon/AP

But most importantly, Philo finally brought diversity to her runway. Earlier this month, the model Iman noted in an interview with London's Evening Standard that she was boycotting Céline products, saying, "Phoebe Philo -- she’s a cool girl. But Céline has never had a coloured person showing in their collection. Ever.” This season was noticeably different: a diverse group of models paraded down the runway, a first for the brand. Philo finally seems to be positively changing her ways.