Blogs and Stories
My Visit To Hell
More exhibits. The Nazis kept such meticulous records, which in the end only meant that there was a vast amount to destroy as the Red Army approached in January 1945. Every death—murder—was written down. Jarek points to a photocopy of a ledger that survived. “The reason given was never ‘bullet’ or ‘gas,’ but instead ‘heart attack’ or ‘kidney function’.” Deaths are listed in intervals of minutes.
In the next case are photocopies of transit passes for the trucks that brought the cannisters of Zyklon B pellets. The contents are listed as “material for the displacement of Jews.” Here are the minutes from the Wannsee Conference outside Berlin on January 20, 1942, the meeting of the board of directors of the corporation in charge of the Final Solution. These are free of euphemism. One page shows the goal: a column of numbers, country-by-country tallies, with a bottom line of 11 million.
Up a flight of stairs, around a corner. No more paperwork. Now it gets personal: two tons of human hair behind glass. Mounds on mounds, amorphous and hard to take in at first, until you focus and see the pigtails and braids. Jarek remarks that they were going to send some of this to the Holocaust Museum in Washington, but in the end it was declined as “too much.” The hair was shorn after the gassings, then efficiently dried in the crematoria so it could be industrially spun into carpeting.
Here is a large pile of spectacles, a spidery mass of rusted wire-frames and dusty lenses. These were left with the clothing in the dressing rooms, so the last things seen through these glasses would have been nervous kapos and Death’s-Head guards.
Behind another wall of glass is a jumble of rusted artificial limbs, canes, crutches, braces. Like the hair, it blurs into abstraction until the eye settles on a child’s fake leg. Now it’s into another room and the suitcases, piles and piles of shriveled leather suitcases. They wrote their names on them in large white letters. Jarek points out the word “orphan” in Dutch. Hundreds of names. I write down one: PETR EISLER 1942 KIND. The year of his birth and his child—kinder—status. In the next room comes the display of children’s clothing, pacifiers, rattles, hairbrushes. Then the shoes, a mountain. Finally the empty canisters of Zyklon B, perhaps a hundred or more, in a pile. By to the calculations of Rudolph Hoss, Auschwitz’s first commandant, it required seven kilos of Zyklon to murder—not the word he used—1,500 people, so this pile here might have sufficed for perhaps 75,000 or 100,000 human beings. It appears from the tops that they refined the process of opening the cans. Some are jagged, others have been smoothly cut, as if in one motion by a machine. Across from this display is a clay diorama of a gas chamber in action. Once everyone was inside, between 700 and 1,500, depending on which of the five gas chambers it was, the doors and windows were sealed tight. The bluish pellets of diatomite soaked in hydrocyanic acid were poured through chutes. Exposed to oxygen, the pellets gave off prussic acid, blocking the exchange of oxygen in the blood. Those close to the chutes died instantly, the ones farther away took longer. Hoss watched one gassing through a peephole. In his Reminiscences before he was hanged in 1947, he describes clinically that it took two or more minutes before the screams turned to moans. Still they didn’t open the doors for half an hour, just in case. After that it was safe for the Sonderkommando, the prisoner work crews, to wade into the tangle of bodies, vomit, and excrement to get the hair and the gold teeth and drag the bodies next door to the crematorium. The work paid well and was competed for: one-fifth liter of vodka, five cigarettes, 100 grams of sausage for each job.
It’s gotten colder outside. We’re approaching Block 10 now, where Professor Doctor Carl Clauberg, a university professor of gynecology described by Borowitz as “a man in a green hunting outfit and a gay little Tyrolian hat decorated with many brightly shining sports emblems, a man with the face of a kindly satyr,” sterilized women and men with chemicals and roentgens and infected children with disease, for science. He was released from prison by the Soviets in 1956. Jarek says, “He went back to Germany and took out an advertisement in the newspaper saying, ‘Dr. Clauberg is seeking an assistant.’ He did not even change his name.” A trace of a smile. “He was arrested and died the same year, of poor health.” Elsewhere at Auschwitz-Birkenau, Dr. Josef Mengele performed his experiments on twins and dwarves.








jonathanpeterson
clinical, brutal and moving.
There is a man in Italy who could afford to read this.
thank you for writing it.
This comment has been removed by The Daily Beast's editors.
Dreamer4Ever
What the hell is wrong with you?
dailyplanet
You are a very sick, demented individual.
AtomicOvermind
Thank you, Mr. Buckley.
clave54
Thank you for this article!
I have read a lot about the Holocaust, but it always seems to furiously strike me again and leave me speechless.
I therefore understand the silence between your father and you.
What could you possible say?
I am an ardent world religions student and it is the Muslim's explanation of evil that always comes back to my mind. "Evil is that were God doesn't exist at all". I am certain that God didn't exist in Auschwitz.
scough
God! Those Muslims are crappy spellers.
Dreamer4Ever
GOD! Those scoughs are assholes.
Dynisty
Thank you for your work. I have read and watched a lot of programs regarding the Holocaust and come to the conclusion I would not have survived. I just can't get a handle on this kind of inhumanity and sometimes don't want to be part of the humane race.
It seems you have access and the ability to answer a question that has come to me over and over as I read and watch these kinds of articles. During the years before and after WWII, (say 1934 - 1949) What were the Jewish people in the United States doing to prevent these activities? Do you have any websites you could direct me to? I am 60 and love to watch TCM. I often wonder as I am watching films made between these years...These movie makers were mostly Jewish....Why weren't there more movies made about the outrageous behavior of the German government? I have seen 'The Little Dictator' by Charlie Chaplin, and surprisingly enough, there were several movies or shorts by the Three Stooges (the first 1940 just before The Little Dictator, 'You Nazi Spy') so clearly there were messages getting out of Germany that were indicating things to come. However, most of the movies were all about 'entertaing' the masses into oblivion to make a profit. Was any of this money used to get the Jewish relatives in Germany out of that mess? I just wonder as I watch these old movies...Why weren't there more movies made to stop this? Or at least educate the population of the world what was really happening. There must have been letters from the Jewish people in Germany going out to the rest of the world. It just purplexes me.
Thanks for listening...and thanks again for your work.
scough
Please see MGM's "Broadway Buchenwald Big Broadcast of 1939". It stars Bob Hope, Dorothy Lamour and Eva Braun. There are a lot of coded references to what was going on in Europe. The allusions to the Nazis went over the heads of most American moviegoers of that era.
finderj
Every time I think I have read the hardest thing about the Holocaust, I read another story like yours and once again, I am left wounded. There are individuals out there who have done even worse things to peoploe. These individuals are profoundly mentally ill, regardless of their IQ, and are, in my opinion, not truly human, only wearing a human guise. When located and convicted, these people should be executed immediately. We have no other way of helping them or truly protecting ourselves from them.
But how does one protect oneself and one's family, one's community, from an entire nation gone mad? From an entire nation touched in varying degrees by total evil?
I do not know what caused the evil that entered Germany in the 1930's. I do not understand how an entire nation could be so infected with this evil that it made an industry out of killing millions of people. What I do know is that as the survivors leave us, it is the memories they leave behind, and the bones of the camps still standing that continually bear necessary witness to this horror. "Never again" is the only human response to such tragedy.
Bulldoglover100
Thank you.
I pray that the destiny in the aferlife, for a certain man in Italy who claims to be of the cloth, is to be decided by a million & half angels.
scough
You ate how much?
KathFitz
How could an entire nation could be so infected with this evil that it made an industry out of killing millions of people? I would guess there are many answers, and none complete. But the idea, spread, taught, and reinforced over years and generations, that people of certain different religions or races were so culturally different, strange, and unknowable that society could not "afford" to give them the same rights as other citizens and remain safe was required to make it possible. Those "others" were labeled as inherintly inferior or evil, and so needed seperate laws and different treatment. In the time of Guantanamo Bay and the war on terror, perhaps it is good for some of us to see a stark reminder of the path that thinking sets you at the beginning of, and whose footsteps precede you.
BasPos
Sadly, too many of Sarah Palin's campaign rallies offered proof.
a2burns
chris, thank you !!!!!!!!!!!! i do not want to get anymore emotional than i feel now so my comment is short !!!!!!!! i lived in prague for 4 years and could never bring myself to visit any camps !!!!!!!!!!! you are brave to do it !!!!!!!!!! i have a photographic memory so when i have seen the atrocities the images do not leave my mind ever !!!!!!!!!!!!! you are a great writer so i hope the revisionists read your account !!!!!!!!!
a2burns
Dynisty, the jews were up on capital hill everyday and FDR would not do anything that is where american jews were !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! anti semitism will never end !!!!!!!!!!!
scough
No they weren't. Even the New York "Times" admitted this in a long, and long overdue, mea culpa several years ago.
badtux
FDR was indeed most emphatic that the U.S. would *not* help the Jews of Europe. He was concerned that making the war into a "war to help the Jews" would cause a collapse in American support for the war.
Anti-semitism was as big an influence in American society in the 1930's and 1940's as it was in German society. As late as the 1960's, there was a three-tier society in the United States. White men were addressed by their last name, as "Mr. Sheffield" for example. Jewish men were addressed by their first name, as a child in the segregated South I was directed to address the Jewish drug store owner in the same building as my father's shop as "Simon", not by his last name. And of course, black men were simply addressed as "boy", they weren't allotted a name by American society at that time.
So it's easy, today, to fault FDR for his decision. But given how racist and anti-semitic American society was at the time, he may have had no choice...
Jolly-Dolly
Dear Mr. Buckley,
To change a mind, you must first change a heart. I fear that those who deny such evils have been done have no heart for those who are Other, or Enemy, or Useless.
"In my Father's house, there are many mansions."
This 'man of god' takes the name of God, his position as a figure of authority and uses it for a worldly purpose - among the gravest sins that any can make. Not only does he break the commandment, but he leads others to do so.
roseth
The more I read about the Nazis and the Holocaust, the harder it becomes to imagine the unbelievable evil perpetrated. There is no limit to the depravity of humans, given the "right" circumstances : collective, group control; fanatic nationalism and basic tribal instincts. It tells us how little our nature has evolved since we left the cave. Emotions can still be manipulated to override our intellect and sensibilities. Germany was the larges and best organized ethnic cleansing operation ever, but it is still happening on a smaller scale. It surely is a misnomer to call this "animal" behaviour -- animals don't kill for the fun of it, or engage in torture and ethnic cleansing..
This comment has been removed by The Daily Beast's editors.
BasPos
I always felt the story of Pilate washing his hands was a sop to the Roman empire. The gospels were as much about politics as religion.
EmilyAP
Thank you, Mr. Buckley, for your grave and moving account of you and your father's visit.
This is hard to say, but I think the most dangerous thing we do when looking back is not speaking or even keeping silent, but allowing ourselves the comfort of believing that these people, the Nazis who did this, were not human. It was and is horrific, inhumane, and unfathomable, but they were just as human as we are. That's really the worst part- it was not only people like us who died there, it was people like us who killed and gassed and followed orders- and pulled the trigger. It was our fellow human beings who decided to do nothing because that's exactly what would most profit them.
We say "Never again", and we hope and we pray, but after Bosnia, Iraq, Darfur, I really don't know.
Denjudge
I have travelled Europe a number of times and in fact lived in The Hague for 4 years. I have been to Dachau a few times as a day trip from Munich. The first 2 or 3 times I went to Munich, I wanted to go to Dachau, but I just couldn't force myself to go. I eventually did make it to Dachau, and it was a very sobering experience. That's when I first saw in person "Arbeit Macht Frei" on the top of an entrance gate.
However, nothing could prepare me, not even Dachau, for what I saw at Auschwitz. In the early 1990s, I went to visit my sister, who was studying in Germany. I met her in Berlin, and we took the night train to Crakow. Somewhere around 03:30 or 04:00 in the morning, we both woke up and realized we had been robbed, just outside of Katowice. My sister had some books and money taken; my camera bag, eye glasses, and passport were taken. Fortunately, my sister thought to look in a trash can on the train, where we found my passport.
We arrived in Crakow early in the morning, where we met a taxi cab driver who spoke little English. We told him our story, and then he decided to help us out. He got us set up in a hotel; he helped us get some money (the hotel wouldn't give us any initially); he brought us to his home to meet his daughter who spoke English well; then they took us to the police station to file a police report; and then they took us to lunch out in the countryside.
After lunch, the taxi driver asked if we wanted to go to Auschwitz. We said that we did want to go.
We took the tour, and it was very much as Chris has described it....extremely moving, extremely sobering, extremely sad. There were even feelings of great anger and bewilderment that the Holocaust happened....how can human beings do this to other human beings?
Some of the things I remember most vividly and which caused me to shiver were the large rooms behind glass, rooms which separately housed clothes, human hair, and eye glasses. On that night train from Berlin, my own glasses had been stolen. I was upset that my glasses had been taken, but after seeing all of those eye glasses from people who were murdered, my feelings about my own glasses disappeared.
It is very difficult to explain what and how I felt taking the tour of Auschwitz. I always take many photographs of places that I visit, but in this case, my camera had been stolen; if I still had my camera, however, I would not have been able to take pictures. It was just too moving.
Thank you, Chris, for the article; I highly encourage anyone who has a chance to visit Auschwitz, or any other camp, to do so.
Thank you.
As a first time user, your comment has been submitted for review. It can take anywhere from a few hours to a day or two for your comment to be reviewed, depending on the time of week and the volume of comments we receive.