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That Certain Nonchalance

A New Guide to Parisian Style

Nonchalant elegance, understated chic, bold yet never flamboyant. Parisian style is practically synonymous with the image of a tall, slim Inès de la Fressange silhouette, sipping a glass of pinot, smoking Gauloises, and walking down the street as if strutting down the catwalk.

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(c) Frédérique Veysset

Beauty Beast

Make Up Artist Makes a Big Splash

Sam Fine

Sam Fine (second from left) poses for a photograph with (from left) Iman, Deborah Cox, and Vanessa Williams at the launch party for his DVD “The Basics of Beauty” in June 2009. (Andrew H. Walker/Getty)

Sam Fine, who created an empire around makeup for women of color in the ’90s. He talks to Allison Samuels about his new collection with Fashion Fair Cosmetics.

Veteran makeup artist Sam Fine admits first lady Michelle Obama came to mind when he launched his new makeup line, Sam Fine For Fashion Fair Supreme Color Collection earlier this month.

“While I was working I kept thinking of what lip gloss first lady Michelle Obama would wear to a state dinner and then when what eye shadow she’d wear to her “Let’s Move” event,” said Fine, who is still highly sought-after in the fashion, music, and film industry for his signature “flawless face,” a look he perfected for women of color in the 1990s and continues to use as the creative makeup director for Fashion Fair Cosmetics. “Would she wear a silvery eye shadow or something more subdued? I sent the collection over to the first lady’s office as soon as they were ready.” Fine worked with the first lady in 2010, perfecting her makeup for a number of occasions at the White House and for her travels around the country and abroad.

‘Le Corps de la Mode’

The Evolution of the Model

A new show in Paris examines the history of modeling, from the early 20th century to Kate Moss. By Rebecca Benhamou.

On the eastern fringes of Paris, there’s an old industrial warehouse overlooking the Seine called the Cité de la Mode et du Design, and nicknamed Les Docks. It’s the unlikely home of one of the biggest fashion museums—the site of last year’s popular exhibitions on Cristóbal Balenciaga and Comme des Garçons’ Rei Kawakubo, which attracted large crowds.

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Guy Bourdin, Courtesy of Michael Hoppen Contemporary, London

PFW

Margiela Gets Craftsy

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Francois Guillot/AFP/Getty (3)

The house's fall collection, which showed in Paris on Thursday night, was unsurprisingly avant-garde.

The word “wearable” is not often (OK, perhaps never) used to describe a Maison Martin Margiela collection. Though Spring 2013 almost went there, the Fall Winter 2013/2014 collection, which showed Friday night in Paris, saw the house getting back to its roots — experimental style.

Fabrics were hand painted, patch-worked together, and even embroidered in a scribbled patterns; it was like a high fashion craft corner moment.  And, judging by the loud cheers from audience — the front row of which included Grace Coddington, Frank Ocean (who is doing the rounds today) and Carine Roitfeld. (Sadly, Kanye did not make an appearance wearing his crystal gimp mask) — they managed to pull it off. Although, we are not sold on the oversized shirt cuffs: it should be made clear that only Julia Nobis could make these look cool.

Weekend Stroll

Fashion Meets Impressionism at the MET

Met Exhibit

Looking back in time, one era merged the arts and fashion into a single medium better than any other. The Impressionist movement, which endured from 1867 to 1886, primarily in France, is now being celebrated with Impressionism, Fashion, and Modernity, an exhibit that opened at the Metropolitan Museum of Art this week, its second stop after Paris’s Museé D’Orsay. It’s there that you’ll find an assortment of paintings and sartorial artifacts connecting the worlds of art and fashion into a single channel.

The exhibit is a time capsule from an era which its curator Susan Alyson Stein says “came of age when fashion as we know it today was coming of age.” It progresses though a series of eight parlor galleries that explore Impressionism’s diaphanous evolution throughout the mid-19th century -- an aesthetic revolution which Stein attributes to the fact that “fashion breeds change, which stems from the constant appeal of novelty.” Works by artists including Edgar Degas, Berthe Morisot, and August Renoir are on view, some featuring historical trend setters like Baudelaire’s mistress Jeanne Duval, and the Empress Eugénie of France.

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AFP/Getty

Benedict isn't as sartorial as originally reported. In fact, one Vatican aide says, "he wouldn't know Gucci from Smoochi."

Say it ain’t so! Along with Pope Benedict XVI’s retirement comes another surprise: it turns out that the pontiff never actually wore shoes by Prada, as it was widely reported throughout his eight-year papacy. CNN’s Christiane Amanpour explained on-air: “We have said for years ever since we watched this this Pope be elected in 2005, that he was wearing red Prada shoes. I’m afraid we’ve been wrong.”

Amounpour’s guest Monsignor Kevin Irwin concurred, explaining “They are red shoes given to him because Contantine gave him the privileges of being an emperor and he allowed him to wear red shoes and a red cape, but frankly the papal shoemaker is up the block. And it’s not Prada.”

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Carl Court/AFP/Getty

and Andre Leon Talley pares down his Vogue responsibilities to make more money.

Anna Wintour Reacts to Alexander Wang’s Balenciaga Debut: The Vogue editor, who apparently convinced Wang to take the job, according to the designer himself, felt that his premiere collection, “was such a restrained show. I thought everything was very wearable, with obviously lots of bows to Balenciaga himself. I thought it was a very smart way to star, by not giving us too many fireworks.” [NYT]

Opening Ceremony Celebrates Rihanna: To celebrate the launch of Rihanna’s River Island Collection, New York-based retailer Opening Ceremony will exhibit seven of the singer-turned-designer’s most well-known outfits. The in-store event, “RIHtrospective,” will include stage red carpet looks hand-selected by Rihanna, and the singer’s stylist Mel Ottenberg. [WWD]

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Francois Guillot/Getty

Raf Simons's nipped waists displayed a range of Sixties references.

The Parisian label chose to hold its Fall 2013 catwalk show inside a special venue erected amid the historic buildings on the Place Vauban, a grand square which was transformed into a zoo pre-show on Friday afternoon, with photographers and show-goers pushing their way through the crowds to enter the space doused in inviting blue light.

Inside, they found silver balloons reflecting an imaginary blue sky and clouds onto the catwalk--a stark contrast to the monotone gray skies outside, framing the mostly black and white tones of the collection.

#PFW

Lanvin's Artful Fall Mix

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Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images

Alber Elbaz's woman for next fall isn't afraid of her masculine side.

It was showtime on Thursday night at the Lanvin Autumn/Winter 2013 catwalk in Paris, but it was hard to gauge the mood of designer Alber Elbez as guests arrived.

Retro waiters served sugary popcorn and soft drinks at the historic Ecole des Beaux Arts, a fabled art school with little in common with your local multiplex, where the fashion flock were stacked up to the rafters on wooden benches, nattering to the sounds of live mellow music performed from the runway by some hipsters with a double base.

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Martin Bureau/Getty

Creative director Peter Copping staged an extravagant exhibit of all things feminine...with a hint of punk.

In what could be called the pre-show to the Nina Ricci Autumn/Winter 2013/14 catwalk, guests gathered in the great hall of Paris Fashion Week – a giant tent erected in the Tuileries named the Espace Ephémère Tuileries – as if for the theater, perched on black benches doused in red light, their chatter mingling with the eclectic and sometimes chaotic sounds from the Philip Glass composition “Two Movements for Two Pianos,” which provided the dreamlike and occasionally urban mood for this elegant show, inspired by dance and presented to convey the feeling of a performance.

Models gathered at the end of the runway after the presentation like a theater troupe ready to take a bow.

And lots of yodeling.

It’s not every day that you come across a fashion show entitled “Schnitzel with Noodles”—or attend a catwalk in a hunting museum.

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Models during the Olympia Le Tan Fall/Winter 2013-2014 ready-to-wear collection show, on February 28, 2013 in Paris. (Francois Guillot/AFP/Getty)

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Beyonce, Frida Giannini and Salma Hayek. (Jordan Strauss/Invision/AP; Jacopo Raule/Getty; Jason Merritt/Getty)

and Sketchers ignites controversy with new teen sneaker line.

Beyonce, Salma Hayek, team with Gucci: Beyonce Knowles, Salma Hayek Pinault, and Gucci’s Frida Giannini have teamed up to create a new global initiative called Chime For Change, which will create awareness surrounding women’s empowerment. The campaign is funded by Gucci and will be formally announced Thursday afternoon when Hayek Pinalt speaks at the TEDxWomen conference. Another announcement will follow in mid-March “regarding a global event that promises to put girls’ and women’s issues on the world stage,” reports The Telegraph. [Telegraph]

Vivienne Westwood Continues Support of Assange: English designer Vivienne Westwood is continuing her support of Wikileaks founder Julian Assange by speaking out against English socialite and writer Jemima Khan, who recently penned a blogpost for the New Statesman against her onetime friend Assange. “I was sad and puzzled when my friend Jemima Khan joined the ranks of these irresponsible women…I hope she will change her mind,” Westwood wrote on her blog Get a Life. “Do they really want our hero to satisfy their wish and vindicate himself by spending the rest of his life in a US super-max jail? Julian is in danger because through WikiLeaks he exposed the killing our authorities over up in wars which cause death and rape.” Westwood recently issued a line of T-shirts in Assange’s support. [Vogue UK]

The young designer showed his first collection for the house in an intimate show in Paris on Thursday morning. Alice Cavanagh reports.

This morning Alexander Wang presented his debut collection for Balenciaga in the Parisian Maison’s grand salon on Avenue George V. It’s the very same building in which the label’s namesake, Cristóbal Balenciaga, once held his couture presentations, and it wasn’t the only tradition that was honored today.

Balenciaga Autumn Winter 2013

Models walk the runway at the Balenciaga Autumn/Winter 2013 fashion show during Paris Fashion Week on Thursday. (Catwalking, via Getty )

Did The Met Ruin Punk?

The Metropolitan Museum of Art's new costume exhibition, PUNK: Chaos to Couture, tries to pay homage to the gritty, subversive, late-1970s movement. But has punk-inspired high fashion added to its legacy-or destroyed it?

  1. Waris Ahluwalia, All Around The World Play

    Waris Ahluwalia, All Around The World

  2. Daft Punk In Saint Laurent Play

    Daft Punk In Saint Laurent

  3. The Sartorialist’s Dapper Dudes Play

    The Sartorialist’s Dapper Dudes

Dapper Dudes

Mr. Beast

Real Men Wear Concealer

Real Men Wear Concealer

Makeup for men is on the rise—and it’s no longer a taboo. Alessandra Codinha reports.

Samurai Chic

Sweet Bun, Dude

Merino Miracle

Here’s a Men’s Work Shirt You Don't Have To Clean

Enough Is Enough

The Rise of Sexist Fashion

Americana Mania

Introducing Farmer Chic

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