For the designer's first collection since his departure from Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs went back to the basics, creating a blank canvas for the next design era to come.
“Happy days are here again. The skies above are clear again. So let’s sing a song of cheer again. Happy days are here again.”
The aura of Marc Jacobs’s Fall/Winter 2014 show was a bit haunting, as Jessica Lange ominously recited the aforementioned lyrics from the 1929 single—which is best associated with the end of the Great Depression and the repeal of prohibition—on repeat. It sounded like a cult-line mantra—“the kind of thing you might hear at a spa,” Jacobs said. And the audience was sucked in.
The boys behind Proenza Schouler decided to go rogue this season, presenting a collection full of bright prints and colors, rather than the sedate monochromatic looks seen on many runways this season.
Energy. Abstraction. Humor. Color. Instinct. Spontaneous. Fast.
That was how Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez described the inspiration behind their most recent Proenza Schouler collection.
As many designers explore gender roles with androgynous looks, Oscar de la Renta and Marchesa produce consistent collections that seem to ask, what's so wrong with looking feminine?
Throughout fashion week, there’s been a lot of talk about exploring and blurring gender roles. Hood by Air designer Shayne Oliver produced his usual unisex collection, showing shirtless “models” with bright wigs vogue-ing across the runway, and outrageous clothing and hairstyles that were clearly meant as social and gender commentary. Jeremy Scott’s collection, themed “Football Lingerie,” showed flamboyant, sports-themed garments that were appropriately timed to the current conversation about sexuality in athletics. And an array of designers—from Marc by Marc Jacobs to Duckie Brown—featured menswear-inspired pieces, including boyish outwear and tailored power suits, that emphasized a growing trend in androgynous dressing. While those designers should be applauded for utilizing the runway as a platform to present progressive social ideas, it’s hard not to wonder, what happened to simply showing gorgeous clothes? Really, what’s so wrong with being…feminine?
Oscar de la Renta has always been reliable. He designs painstakingly gorgeous gowns, flirty frocks, and tailored tweed separates for the woman who likes to look, and feel, beautiful. For his Fall/Winter 2014 collection, the 81-year-old designer—along with his nine design assistants as listed in the show’s program—presented a series of clothes that once again failed to disappoint, or stray away from its steady and dependable aesthetic. The silhouettes and color scheme were quintessentially Oscar: pencil skirts, structured blazers, and day-dresses meant for the lady who likes to lunch. An oversized blue cashmere turtleneck was paired with a black flared skirt with royal flowers and gold petals; a white alpaca sweater meshed with a tight leather skirt; and a laser-cut, gold-studded leather jacket was paired with a skirt of the same pattern. For his grand gown finale, Oscar pulled out all the usual tricks: a ruffled, black-and-white polka dot dress with a billowing skirt; two a-line, feather and beaded gowns (one in silver, one in gold); and a strapless, red rose-printed black dress with an attached bustier and a maroon fur collar.
As part of The Daily Beast's recurring feature on innovative creators, Misha Nonoo dishes on her design inspirations for her eponymous clothing line and her closet essentials.
And LVMH announces finalists for 'Prize for Young Designers.'
Cara Delevingne's Secret Mulberry Project: The rumor mill has been circulating that "It" girl Cara Delevingne has been working on a secret project for London-based luxury band, Mulberry. On Thursday, Mulberry confirmed that a collaborative "creative project" with the supermodel will be unveiled at a dinner at Claridge's on Sunday night during London Fashion Week. Delevingne, who is the current face of the brand, will host the event alongside House & Holmes's creative director Ronnie Cooke Newhouse and Mulberry CEO Bruno Guillon. The brand is known for naming bags after major celebrities—think the 'Alexa' and 'Del Rey' purses named after Alexa Chung and Lana Del Rey, respectively. Could the “Cara" be Mulberry's next big thing? [Vogue UK]
DVF Names New Art Director: After overseeing the design team of her namesake brand for the past few years, fashion designer Diane von Furstenberg has named Bally Switzerland’s creative director Michael Herz to take over “the promotion, direction and design of the DVF brand.” Von Furstenberg told WWD, “as the company continues to grow—and we continue to expand our product categories—it is so important to have someone next to me who will ensure that all products with the DVF name remain true to our brand.” [WWD]
It’s not easy breaking into the fashion world. But three young new designers are doing just that, presenting fierce and sophisticated collections at New York Fashion Week.
Among the big names at fashion week—and the near 200 shows taking place there—it’s easy to get lost in the shuffle. Especially for new designers. In an already overexposed market, it’s difficult to carve out a unique spot. This season, however, three young labels have continued to amass a following that proves that they too have discovered their spot in the industry.
Although still under-the-radar when it comes to the general public, 28-year-old Rosie Assoulin (who was named one of Forbes’s 30 Under 30 in Art & Style) has already garnered a cult-like following within the fashion industry. She’s a favorite and close friend of ‘Man Repeller’ blogger Leandra Medine, fashion editor Taylor Tomassi-Hill (and many of her former Moda Operandi colleagues), and most recently, supermodel Lily Aldridge, who wore a white, billowing strapless gown by the designer to New York’s amFAR gala. Despite her youth and recent introduction to the industry (the designer introduced her debut collection for Resort 2013), Assoulin has found her niche in the market: producing sophisticated evening wear, cocktail dresses, and tailored suits, skills that could take, for even the most experienced designer, years to develop. For her Fall/Winter 2014 presentation, Assoulin showed a collection that was the right balance of structure and drapery, brightness and neutrality in an intimate space at Industria Superstudio in the Meatpacking District. Continuing to push her own creative boundaries, Assoulin presented a mix of daywear and evening gowns to create a collection that she described as somewhere “between the romantically fantastical and reliably practical.” The first look, a gold velvet crop top with a pair of yellow balloon pants that resembled a set of bananas, was the perfect indicator of Assoulin’s draping and voluminous shapes. The mix that followed—a structured grey wool coat, a cream cashmere sweats set, an army green tailored suit—were everything the Rosie girl needs and wanted to be.
And Topshop will host a "virtual reality" fashion show.
Michelle Obama Wore Carolina Herrera to State Dinner: For Tuesday night’s official state dinner in Washington, D.C., First Lady Michelle Obama chose a dramatic and voluminous gown by Carolina Herrera. A press release described the outfit as a “black hand-sewn beaded embroidery appliqué scallop-edged top over a liberty blue silk faille corset with a wide black velvet belt detail and liberty blue silk faille inverted pleat long skirt and train.” [The Cut]
Sports Illustrated Models Star in Flight Safety Video: “I love this in-flight safety video!” said no one ever. Air New Zealand has apparently caught on. Teaming with Sports Illustrated for its 50th anniversary, the airline has enlisted a slew of sexy models to make things a bit more entertaining and a lot more educational in their “Safety in Paradise” in-flight video. The “babes in bikinis” include Chrissy Teigen, Hannah Davis, Ariel Meredith, Jessica Gomes, and Christie Brinkley. [Fashionista]
The little sister brand to Marc Jacobs has gone through a difficult growth spurt over the past few years. But with a new design duo at the helm, the line seems to be recovering its edge.
Somewhere over the years since its conception in 2001, Marc by Marc Jacobs lost its identity. The line that was first established as the cool, relatively more affordable little sister to Marc Jacobs has had difficulty maintaining a strong runway presence over the years.
In May, Marc Jacobs announced that British fashion designers Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley would take the reigns of the brand, becoming creative director and head designer, respectively. With Jacobs planning to focus more attention on his own, namesake line, it’s no surprise that he brought in an experienced design duo to revamp the brand that got lost in the mix.
Designers Laura and Kate Mulleavy honored their favorite childhood movie—‘Star Wars’—in their latest collection, which was all about quirky nostalgia.
Rodarte designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy translated their obsession with sci-fi and some of their most beloved childhood moments into what is being considered one of the brand’s most successful collections to date.
"It's kind of all our memories coming together in something that's expressive," Kate Mulleavy said. "So it wasn't about a specific place, 'cause I think memory is so disjunctive. It was more about kind of piecing together the things that we wanted to build this world out of."
For the next installment of Carine Roitfeld’s namesake magazine, Lindsey Wixson channels Drew Barrymore’s character in ‘E.T.’ for an issue that’s all about fairy tales.
“Many people in fashion live lives worthy of fairy tales,” Carine Roitfeld says of the upcoming issue of her namesake magazine, CR Fashion Book. That’s why it is no surprise that the world’s favorite gap-toothed model, Lindsey Wixson, is the next it-girl to grace the cover of the fourth issue.
Wixson’s unique look, with her bee-stung lips and sexy pout, thrust her into the spotlight at the age of 15, when she appeared in Vogue Italia for her first modeling job. Since then, she has booked campaigns for the likes of Versace, Miu Miu, Jill Stuart, and Alexander McQueen.
Carole Radziwill, one time princess, two-time Real Housewives star, debuts her first novel and talks about sex and dating.
The period after a break-up, divorce, or separation where individuals struggle to start again and re-enter the dating world is always a challenge. There is the timing, the comparisons to exes and an overwhelming feeling that nothing feels the way it should. But, finding your place after the death of your partner is a completely different story.
In the new comedic novel, A Widow’s Guide to Sex and Dating, Claire Byrnes’ life is left in a bit of a mess after the unexpected death of her husband, a sexologist and well known author with a penchant for extramarital affairs. After leaving behind some unfinished business, Claire navigates her life with a newfound “widow virginity” and the necessity to discover who she is as an individual with the occasional help of multiple therapists, a psychic, and a botanomanist, and a set of rules she’s made for herself.
And Gilt Groupe to go public.
Peter Pilotto For Target Breaks Records: Teaming up with Net-A-Porter.com, Peter Pilotto’s much anticipated collection for Target became the website’s fastest selling collaboration. "The response has been phenomenal!" Net-A-Porter.com president Alison Loehnis told Vogue. "Peter (Pilotto) and Christopher (De Vos) worked with Target on creating a collection that was totally identifiable, yet different, and we knew this collaboration was going to be a hit from the beginning." Pilotto's line outsold similar collaborations by Karl Lagerfeld and Christopher Kane, with one order placed every second for an hour on Sunday. [Vogue]
Tory Burch Eyes Possible Men’s Collection: During Tory Burch's show at New York fashion week on Tuesday, the rumor mill was in high gear after the discovery that the designer had coaxed away Coach Inc’s creative director of men’s design Jeffrey Uhl. Uhl was one of the key members responsible for the rapid growth of Coach's men’s business. When he begins at Burch in a couple of weeks, he will allegedly be overseeing both men’s and women’s accessories. [WWD]
A group of young women is trying to prove that it’s possible to be hip and stylish, while still covering up. Can they break the stereotype of the hijab as a symbol of oppression?
The latest video in its recurring series, luxury e-tailer Moda Operandi talks design process and inspirations with up-and-coming British designer Emilia Wickstead.