The first day of fashion week was all about the juxtaposition of wearability with aspirational luxury as Jason Wu and Rag and Bone revealed their new collections.
Jason Wu kicked off the "real" first day of New York Fashion Week Friday afternoon, which, instead of being held at the Lincoln Center circus was shown in an intimate viewing loft on Mercer Street in Soho. The scene was elegant, yet also relaxed, a nod at the designer's latest collection. A busty Adriana Lima opened the show — which the designer described as "unflustered beauty" — in a black fitted blazer, semi-sheer turtleneck, and trousers, serving as a starting point for a series of pieces that channeled a woman's inner-power. The flirty frocks and splashes of colors were replaced with a more serious aesthetic: the color palette was dark and romantic, the evening wear more sexified, the fabrics and textures even more luxurious than past seasons. What's most interesting, however, is the slight criticism Wu has received for his outerwear, which, to me, seemed like the most notable part of the collection. "His coats, in a mix of leather, fur, and shearling, are oversize and luxurious but without very much grace," fashion critic Robin Givhan wrote for The Cut. "Everything was just so very big — and with adornment to boot." Booth Moore, the Los Angeles Times's style critic, agreed with Givhan, writing, "The opening pieces, tailored in wool crepe, or a combination of jacquard, silk and astrakhan fur, were clunky." Yet, the utilitarian parkas or menswear-inspired coats adorned with bits of furs were seemingly what some of the silky slip dresses needed for balance. Plus, if the scene outside the venue was any indication, oversized — and clad in fur — is exactly what women want.
Later that afternoon, Rag and Bone showed something equally as aesthetically pleasing, yet incomparably different in both theme and execution. The brand, moreso this season than last, delivered what it has become most widely recognized for: wearability. Marcus Wainwright and David Neville presented a collection that was straight Americana, with mohair coats and thicker leggings, citing the fifties (with bowling shirts) and the eighties, as inspiration behind the collection. It was the subtle, cool touches, like the splashes of red throughout an otherwise monochromatic collection, or the models' names emblazoned across certain pieces — the bomber jacket that read Georgia May, the crew neck sweatshirt embroidered with Joan — that proved Rag and Bone have found their niche in the high-fashion meets accessible realm.
David Bailey is best known for his ultra glam photos of the fashionable and famous. But a new exhibit pairs these works with anonymous portraits of locals taken during his travels.
Some of his philanthropic efforts are a little more light-hearted. As part of his Democracy project, Bailey offered to photograph visitors to his studio buck-naked from 2001 to 2005—an invitation, incidentally, none ever refused. One by one, he asked his subjects to strip and stand in front of an evenly lit, white background, a mere six feet from his lens; once photographed, every image was printed on the same paper, free from edits, and identically framed. The point? To enforce democracy. Bailey banished variation other than that embodied in the sitters themselves. Six of the resulting life-size nudes hang in the Gallery, and, like the images of nameless subjects from his travels, they highlight the personalities of the sitters who arrange their bodies in certain ways. Model Bernd Kho stands legs-spread, fingers pinching nipples, clearly well within his comfort zone, a smile playing across his lips. Tattoo- and piercing-covered, “Prince Albert” is even easier to read. As Bailey said, “you could hire him for parties!” Who doesn’t love a good exhibitionist?
“Just a little bit of pixie dust”—that’s all Peter Pan needed to fly to Neverland. For Londoners lucky enough to find their way to the National Portrait Gallery, the magical substance guaranteed to provide a lift is Bailey’s Stardust, the ultra glamorous photographs by David Bailey.
The up-and-coming British design duo unveils their collection for Target on Sunday, becoming the latest high-fashion designers to collaborate with the low-price superstore.
Christopher De Vos and Peter Pilotto, the design duo behind up-and-coming British label PETER PILOTTO, are known for their use of bright colors and wild prints. Following in the footsteps of other major designers, including Prabal Gurung, Jason Wu, and Phillip Lim, PETER PILOTTO's collection for Target will be available on February 9 nationwide, with pieces including sweatshirt-style tops, swimwear, and playful sunglasses all for a fraction of runway costs. In anticipation of the brand's capsule collection release, Pilotto and De Vos share their inspirations and favorite parts of their new hybrid line.
Where did you find the inspiration for this collection? How did you develop the color scheme and patterns?
And Cara Delevingne may be re-making 'Thelma and Louise.'
Big Changes for Marc Jacobs: Following his leave at Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs is refocusing his attention on his namesake brand, planning a complete overhaul of the company from logo to store décor and everything in between. Included in Jacobs's plans is an expansion of his shoe line, as well as opening a flagship store that will sell everything from $2300 shearling coats to $2 condoms. His off-set line, Marc by Marc Jacobs, is also getting a facelift, with a name change happening in the near future. "I've always hated that name. I have an idea of what it should be, which I presented to everyone, but I can't really say it yet," Jacobs said to Vogue. Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley will showcase the line’s newest collection on February 11th for their first time with the brand. [Elle]
Sophie Dahl Starts Blogging: While some might think food and fashion are an unlikely pairing, former model Sophie Dahl thinks it’s the perfect thing to blog about. In her new online project, At the Kitchen Table, Dahl enlisted some big name creatives to dish out recipes, short stories, and high-profile interviews. “I decided to create something with my sensibility at its core — but with a really eclectic mix of contributors bringing their voices to the table," Dahl told Vogue. [Vogue UK]
And Rihanna may be 'Vogue's' March cover girl.
Doutzen Kroes is Expecting: Thursday morning, Victoria's Secret supermodel Doutzen Kroes posted a bare photo to Instagram, showing off her baby bump. "This is not a #throwbackthursday this is now! So happy to share with you that we are expecting," Kroes wrote alongside the photo. This is the supermodel's second child with husband, DJ Sunnery James. The couple welcomed their first child, Phyllon Gore, in January 2011. [Vogue UK]
Tavi Gevinson Lands Another Book Deal: Young style blogger and founder of Rookie magazine Tavi Gevinson has scored herself another book deal. On Tuesday, Razorbill, part of Penguin Random House, announced that it will be publishing the third and fourth editions of 17-year-old Gevinson's series Rookie Yearbooks. The books, described by the publisher as "jumbo, full-color compendiums," will feature "the best of rookiemag.com from its previous year, plus exclusive-to-print content from big name contributors." “Rookie is one of the few sites I read religiously,” Razorbill editor Jessica Almon said. “It’s inspiring to see a publication so chock-full of strong female voices. The hope is that this partnership will create new and exciting opportunities for those voices to be heard.” [LA Times]
Fashion designers, models, and bloggers are flocking to New York to check out the Fall/Winter 2014 runways. See their favorite Manhattan hangouts after a day running from show to show.
College girls invade Butler library to make a softcore statement on “female hysteria.” Paging Camille Paglia.
At first glance, it looks like a slightly pretentious softcore porn film: topless women in unsexy underwear, writhing and kissing, oiling each other up. But read the video’s title and description—“Initiation explores the rituals of American Ivy League secret societies, to the point of hysteria, highlighting our culture’s perception of female desire”—and you realize this porno-lite has a political purpose, albeit a rather earnest one. (No surprise here: it was made by college students.)
The sapphic adventure—complete with whips and blindfolds, raw eggs, milk and a black rubber chicken—was not shot in a dank studio in the San Fernando Valley but rather in the hallowed stacks of Columbia University’s Butler Library. The film was conceived by Coco Young, a Columbia undergraduate, and Karley Sciortino, author of the “Slutever” blog and columnist for Vogue, and its stars a cast of artists and students.
And Taylor Tomasi Hill gets a gig with GOOP.
Michael Kors Becomes a Billionaire: After a successful third quarter, which ended on December 28, 54-year-old fashion designer Michael Kors's company hit one billion dollars in revenue, making Kors a billionaire as well. Stocks for the company have now jumped nearly 20%. The success of Kors's brand is mostly due to its accessories and watch sales, as well as the beauty line, which was launched in August. Kors's company expects to be "one of the most significant brands and the fragrance market globally," a rep of the brand said on Tuesday's earnings call. [Bloomberg]
Gisele Bündchen Covers Porter Magazine: Luxury e-tailer Net-a-Porter has unveiled the highly-anticipated cover of its first print magazine, featuring supermodel Gisele Bündchen. Shot by fashion photography duo Inez and Vinoodh, Bündchen is shown in a warm, intimate portrait, wearing a red Chanel crop top, alongside the caption "The private world of the $300 million woman." The magazine hits newstands February 6 and will be available six times a year. [Fashionista]
And Kristen Stewart shares her beauty routine.
New York City Named Fashion Capital of the World: New York City has stolen the title back as the fashion capital of the world, according to a recent study released by The Global Language Monitor. London, which was named the reigning capital for both 2011 and 2012, was inched down to third place, below Paris (named "The Top Global Fashion Capital for Haute Couture), which landed the number two spot. “New York City has, indeed, earned its Top Global Fashion Capital ranking through its disciplined, methodical yet creative approach to its fashion industry,” Bekka Payack, the New York-based Fashion Director for The Global Language Monitor said. ”This year’s rankings also demonstrate the creative energy that is emerging worldwide in terms of fashion as a jobs, income and wealth generator, not to mention the prestige associated with exporting your fashion sense to the world." Other cities featured on the top ten list include Los Angeles, Barcelona, Berlin, Antwerp, Sydney, Rome, and Shanghai. [The Cut]
Naomi Campbell Denies Bullying Allegations: Supermodel Naomi Campbell has been accused of bullying a contestant on her modeling reality show The Face. The contestant, Kira Dikhtyar, accused Campbell of "ill treatment" that has "resulted in psychological damage." Dikhtyar even took to Page Six, stating that "Naomi hates Russians." Despite Dikhtyar's assertions, Campbell's team has denied any such behavior. "We're sorry Kira is unwell and we hope she gets the help she obviously needs," a source close to the supermodel told Vogue UK. "Her allegations are absurd." [Vogue UK]
A disturbing trend online encourages girls to be so thin they can see a gap between their thighs. Model Robyn Lawley reacts.
Models are shown at a dream-like dinner party in a new video from CR Fashion Book entitled 'Entropy.'