If Riccardo Tisci experimented with lightness and fragility at Givenchy, and Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli played with diaphanous shapes and silhouettes at Valentino, Jean-Paul Gaultier was anything but. Gaultier, who is celebrated this year in a massive retrospective at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, experimented with men’s wear, rock 'n' roll motifs—and lots of black. It was an androgynous collection, as both and women came down the runway—and some, like transgender sensation Andrej Pejic, blurred the line between the two. Plumes exploded from headdresses, and fur-trimmed bell skirts came down the runway, along with velvet capes, studded jackets, and, on one man—a full-length feathered skirt. And Gaultier’s runway shows always include some special guests: This season it was the French model Eve Slalvail, famous for her tattooed bald head, who got her start with Gaultier in the early 1990s. The finale, however, brought out the Gaultier’s muse, singer Mylene Farmer, who gave the designer a big kiss at the end of the runway.