Proenza Schouler’s Jetsons Moment
The Proenza Schouler show was the last of Wednesday night, held in a shadowy warehouse on the West Side Highway. The collection was an explosion of prints and textures—animal-print shorts, an eel-skin skirt, fitted blazers cinched at the waist, and for evening, breathtaking embroidered beaded floral dresses. This season, designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez were inspired by Googie architecture, that zany, Atomic Age style that helped define Southern California's burgeoning mid-century car culture. (Think the "Welcome to Fabulous Las Vegas" sign and Seattle's Space Needle.) “It was all based on the idea of speed and looking toward the future,” McCollough told us after the show, which was, in a sense, a retro idea of futurism: wooden wedges, for instance, were offset by lacquered silver clutches.
In terms of color, the collection began with an earthy palette, and progressed toward more electric oranges, teals, and neon greens. But, as McCollough says, next spring’s Proenza woman is “just another take on the same girl. Everything’s a little rough around the edges. Nothing’s ever worn so perfectly.” Certainly the sea of blonde bedheads in the audience would agree. One unlikely Proenza Schouler fan in the front row was the rapper Pharrell Williams, who told us afterward that the shoes were indeed his favorite part. “Those are baby-making shoes!” he said.