One bar in the former Yugoslavia has the distinct honor of straddling a disputed border. Enjoy a beer in two different countries…just don’t let the guards catch you crossing the line.
It's the day after Christmas in Slovenia, and it's unusually mild for this time of year. The temperature is a balmy nine degrees accompanied by a springtime-like drizzle of rain; perfect weather for driving into the middle of former Yugoslavia for an interview and a few cold beers.
Obrežje is a small settlement in eastern Slovenia. By eight in the evening, the village is quiet and glowy and glistening from the rain. On the eastern edge of Obrežje is a sleepy little border crossing into Bregana, Croatia. And right smack dab on that borderline is Kalin Tavern and Inn—a quaint 180-year-old establishment that is awkwardly straddling the two former-Yugoslavian republics.
As I arrive, I notice a string of cement flowerpots blocking the road right outside the tavern. Apparently, these were put in place shortly after the breakup of Yugoslavia in 1991 to prohibit the passage of cars over the border. Unable to resist, I walk over to the flowerpot-barricade and stretch one leg over onto Croatian soil. As if on cue, a yellow light turns on inside a small guardhouse about a hundred feet away on the Croatian side, and a border guard starts to make his way down to the barricade in the rain. I feel like I am in a John Le Carré novel and scurry into the tavern in hopes of avoiding an “international incident.”
While we may not all be able to compete in the 2014 Sochi Winter Games, here are some incredible places to plan your own competition and try out a few of the most exhilarating events.
Ski-Jumping, Park City, Utah
Gene Sweeney Jr./Getty
It’s the Winter Olympics at its most mentally chilling: Lycra-ed figures in oversize skis hurtling down jumps, launching off at 55 mph, dangling midair, then landing safely (hopefully) on the slope below. These must be the bravest (or daftest?) athletes at the party. So join them! Utah’s Olympic Park, near Salt Lake City, hosted the 2002 games. The paraphernalia’s still there, with expert coaches to guide squeaky-bummed beginners off six-feet-high jumps – or higher, if they dare. If not, the Extreme Zipline starts at the top of the K120 ski jump, so amateurs can experience the thrill (and terror) of making the leap.
Admission to Utah Olympic Park is free; guided tours cost $11, and run daily on the hour from 11am to 4pm.
New year, new you, right? In 2014, getting back into shape doesn’t have to be so brutal. At these wellness retreats, the staff will kick your butt—and then spoil you silly.
Pure Kauai, Hawaii
Use the island’s stunning nature as a gym—surf lessons, kayak excursions, rainforest hikes, and beach runs—at Pure Kauai bespoke fitness vacations. Guests are set up in private cottages or villas, then catered to by personal trainers, health-minded private chefs, personal assistants, and wellness practitioners from massage therapists to intuitive healers and astrologists. Although vacations can be as active or as mellow as guests wish, the sports instructors and personal trainers are prepared to kick it into high gear. Quite a few celebs have stayed with Pure Kauai to get in shape for a role.
Getting there: fly to Kauai. There is a five-night minimum stay.
From a seven-year journey tracing the history of humans to a man attempting to be the first to walk the entire length of the Nile, meet some of the craziest adventurers of 2013.
Paul Salopek: Following Humankind
Author Salopek’s feet connect him to the earliest travelers as he leads camels across Ethiopia’s Afar desert. (John Stanmeyer/National Geographic; National Geographic)
Our apologies to all other explorers; journalist and National Geographic Fellow Paul Salopek’s journey tracing the history of mankind is virtually unbeatable. Embarking from Ethiopia, the cradle of civilization, Salopek has undertaken a 21,000-mile, seven-year-long walking tour to trace human migration. His “Out of Eden Walk” will end in Tierra del Fuego, the southernmost tip of South America. Salopek is filing dispatches to National Geographic throughout his trek, which readers can follow in real-time, and, for each 100 miles traveled, he pauses to record the milestone with a panoramic photograph, ambient noise recording, and an interview with the closest person. He started the journey in January 2013 and, with his top day reaching 34 miles walked, still has six years to go and innumerable pairs of shoes to wear through.
Parker Liautaud: Antarctica’s Coast to the South Pole
As you raise a glass of bubbly this New Year’s, you’ll be celebrating a new era in rule-breaking American sparkling wines.
New Year’s Eve has long been associated with a Champagne toast and the promise of new beginnings.
This festive, effervescent tradition dates directly to the 19th century, when Champagne houses began catering to individuals with new fortunes acquired during the Industrial Revolution. Symbolically, the custom reaches back much farther—to 496, when King Clovis of France converted to Christianity for his wife, Clotilde. He ushered in a new era in France and sparked a ritual by which new French kings began their reign in the city of Reims, celebrating afterwards with Champagne toasts. (The wines were still back then, but they were festive all the same.)
Until recently, Champagne houses have generally remained large operations. Established houses make the vast majority of their bubbly brews from a mélange of grapes grown by multiple vignerons throughout the entire Champagne appellation. The final wines are usually blends of several vintages and aim to create a “house style” for consistency. Some of those houses have established American outposts. Champagne Roederer’s California counterpart is called Roederer Estate. Taittinger’s American offshoot is Domaine Carneros. Piper Sonoma is the American sibling of Remy-Cointreau’s Piper-Heidseick Champagne Brand.
From new surfing records and Mexico’s overlooked getaway to crazy underground adventures in NYC and the best airport restaurants, escape with this year’s entertaining travel reads.
Andy Jacobsohn, January 30
After chasing a record-setting wave for a dozen years, the veteran surfer may have ridden a 100-foot monster off the coast of Nazaré, Portugal. All that remains now is for Guinness to certify it as a world record.
David Guttenfelder/AP; Danny Lehman/Corbis; The Skinny Dipping Report
Think the world revolves around you? Think again. These awe-inspiring sights—towering mountains, vast deserts, endless skies—will put you back in your place.
Mass Games, Pyongyang, North Korea
Scary and spectacular in equal measure, North Korea’s Mass Games personify the country’s totalitarian politics—and serve as a strikingly well-ordered reminder that we are all just one of seven-odd billion souls strutting and fretting on this globe’s stage. Granted, not every earthling is gathered in Pyongyang for this event, but it sometimes seems like it: at the games, ranks of meticulously organized dancers and gymnasts (around 100,000 in all) create a visual display not of personal skill, but of perfect synchronicity. This is masses of humanity working together, greater than the sum of its parts.
The Games are held from mid-August to mid-October. September to October is less humid and more pleasant than summer in Korea.
Fishing villages in New England have gotten creative and embraced a new take on the average old Christmas tree: ones made from lobster traps. Let the competition begin.
We're always excited to discover a Christmas tree that isn't a "tree" at all. Like the one made of wine bottles at Seattle's Hotel Vintage Park, the 2,130-foot tall "tree" of lights on the side of Italy's Mount Ingino, and Lithuania's recycled plastic bottle spruce. But for more than a decade, a new holiday tradition has been brewing in some of New England's most charming coastal towns: lobster trap Christmas trees. And the competition to build the best of the bunch has gotten heated. We're not about to get in the middle of a friendly fishing village rivalry, but take a look at the different ways in which five towns are putting their personal stamps on the lobster trap tree trend.
The seaport made famous in Sebastian Junger’s A Perfect Storm is the city that started the lobster pot madness in 2001. And Gloucester's Lobster Trap Tree—which measures 45 feet in height—has become a community-wide effort: local lobstermen donate 350 traps, which are stacked by volunteers, adorned with hundreds of donated buoys which have been painted by area kids, then topped with a star with the help of the fire department's hook and ladder. "No one 'owns' the tree," says Rebecca Borden, resident and interim executive director of Cape Ann Art Haven, a community art space which has helped to oversee the tree’s assembly for the past six years. It also runs the January Buoy Auction + Family FUN night to benefit the organization, which has seen buoys sell for as much as $750 apiece. "It is truly an event that brings out the best in the Cape Ann community," says Borden of the holiday festivities.
Wondering what to drink while you’re preparing your Christmas feast? Sommelier Jordan Salcito recommends the little known appellation of Bugey-Cerdon for wines that are fresh, lively, and low on alcohol—perfect for sipping all day long.
“Whoever receives friends and does not participate in the preparation of their meal does not deserve to have friends.”
– Anthelme Brillat-Savarin
During the holidays, everyone wants to talk about what to drink along with dinner. We are bombarded with recommendations for Cru Beaujolais with Thanksgiving turkey, Champagne with New Years, and robust red wines with a Christmas roast. But an equally important question is what should one drink while preparing these holiday feasts? What’s the perfect holiday daytime drink?
I bring this up because there is a perfect holiday wine, and it’s one that not nearly enough people know about. This piece, in short, is an ode to a wine from the tiny French appellation of Bugey-Cérdon, historically known as a “Christmas wine” and one of the most versatile, quaffable wines around.
Every day, millions of cat lovers click on cat videos and cat memes. But 2014 is the year to get offline and on the road to check out some of these kitty-centric locations.
Cat Cafes, Japan
Japan is known for many things, but lots of living space isn’t one of them. Cramped quarters haven’t stopped the Japanese from craving cat company, but short of collecting Hello Kitty figurines, what can a feline freak do? Enter the cat cafes, which are exactly as the name suggests. For a cover charge, patrons get a caffeine-n-cat fix, snuggling, romping, or just ogling as many as two dozen fluffballs for anywhere up to six hours on end. Though the concept originated in Taiwan, cat cafes are whoppingly popular in Japan, with 150 of them nationwide.
’Tis the season to visit our nation’s capital. But rather than braving the masses at the traditional tourist sights, check out these lesser known, but equally spectacular, spots.
There are few cities as beautiful as Washington, D.C. during the holidays, especially when it snows. However, D.C. can also be overrun with tourists, particularly as most of its well-known attractions are clustered in a small area.
Union Market is up and running and is already a pretty busy lunch spot. Here is a plate of fresh shucked oyster's at the Rappahannock Oyster Bar. The building is located at 1309 5th St. NE, in Washington, D.C. (Douglas Graham/CQ Roll Call)
While those attractions are worth the visit (especially the monuments at night), there are dozens of other local spots that are just as enjoyable and give visitors a glimpse into how our capital’s denizens pass the time.
Note for D.C. residents: Your city has countless amazing experiences to be had. We’ve chosen just a small sampling for the holidays, so relax.
Food writer Liz Crain and four-time James Beard nominee John Gorham, owner of the Portland restaurant Toro Bravo, on their favorite cookbooks. Their very own, ‘Toro Bravo: Stories. Recipes. No Bull’ is out now.
One of my favorite things to do on a lazy weekend morning is to wake up, make a press of coffee, grab a bunch of cookbooks from the kitchen and get back in bed with both. John likes to go through a stack of cookbooks as much as I do although he probably has three times as many as I do. I’m not a strict recipe follower—John obviously isn’t either—and flipping through the books is more a way to prime the pump and generate ideas. We both particularly love cookbooks filled with personal narrative in addition to the recipes—tales of discovery, adventure, debauchery.
I never give myself a hard time about buying cookbooks because unlike other books I revisit most of them over and over again. They’re my favorite type of reference book and the only genre of book that I write in. I don’t write a lot in them but I do make my own indexes of recipes I’ve tried with notes about them—usually on the back endpaper. I think you might want to try that. You’re welcome.
Here are some cookbooks that John and I won’t lend you. We love them too much. Get your own damn copies.
From a submerged Bar Refaeli to a Mediterranean idyll, a voyeur’s look at the stars’ sun-soaked scenes.
Calm down, everybody. Clinton's Hitler analogy was accurate—and it's hilarious to watch Republicans trying to use it to dent her foreign policy credentials.
The bouillabaisse is just as tasty, but Europe’s 2013 Capital of Culture now has a lot more to offer. Anna Watson Carl reports.
More than a natural wonder, Cappadocia's formations have been a safe haven to many. Nina Strochlic reports.
Tony Wheeler, co-founder of Lonely Planet Publications, remembers the fun early days of travel guide writing, but says they're not over yet.
Miley Cyrus’ fav new haunt is Beacher’s Madhouse, the craziest club in Los Angeles.
Take the vacation of a lifetime—in beautiful North Korea? That’s Uri Tours’ pitch. Lloyd Grove reports.
In ‘Mapping Manhattan,’ explore the city via 75 New Yorkers’ personal geographies. By Allison McNearney.