The show set at Chanel is always a talking point of Paris Fashion Week: last fall it was towering crystals; for spring, models wove their way around life-size windmills, and this season it was a gigantic rotating globe, on which miniature Chanel flags pinpointed where all the Chanel retail stores were situated around the world. (Fittingly the soundtrack included Daft Punk’s dance anthem "Around The World"). It sent a strong statement to make to a very captive and influential audience: whatever you might think of the collection, Chanel is the global powerhouse.

Spectacular as the sets can be, they often take away from the clothes — but this season there was as much happening on the runway as there was in the background. The house’s signature tweed was featured in almost every look, and looked great when layered with other knitwear and weaves, and the ladylike skirts and dresses were contrasted with black biker boots that had Chanel chains, and were worn with black or white leather spats that finished mid thigh. Creative Director Karl Lagerfeld also presented what might be this season’s most covetable accessory: brightly colored (we’re talking Marge Simpson blue) fur helmets.