#NYFW

09.12.13

Francisco Costa’s 10 Years at Calvin Klein

Calvin Klein Collection women’s-wear designer Francisco Costa celebrated 10 years at the helm on Thursday—but his current collection added something new.

Thursday marked a big day for Calvin Klein Collection: Francisco Costa celebrates his 10th year as the creative director of women’s wear at the company.

In honor of the milestone, he chose a favorite look from each collection he has designed, for The Daily Beast. Looking at his selections, it’s clear that over the past decade, Costa’s designs have evolved, constantly continuing to articulate his sensibility of what it means to be a Calvin Klein woman.

But there are a few themes that remain loud and clear: Calvin Klein is about sophisticated clothes, about sleek silhouettes with a little bit of an edge.

Never were these ideas more clear than in the spring/summer 2014 collection, which was shown in the sleek new space at Spring Studios, which will be a multi-channel creative agency for fashion brands opening this fall. 

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From left: ‘Vogue’ 's Grace Coddington, Anna Wintour, and Virginia Smith; actresses Nicole Kidman, Rooney Mara, and Naomie Harris. (Andrew H. Walker/Getty Images)

Costa told WWD that for spring 2014, he was looking at a series of artistic influences—from Jean-Michel Basquiat to Picasso to Gordon Matta-Clark. 

The collection opened with a series of cream-colored structured separates—all which played with texture and shape. Next, he introduced color, bringing pastel skirts and tops down the runway in shades of pink and green. The silhouette was structured and architectural—for pants, skirts, and tops. Panels of fabric separated from the back of a few dresses, creating a beautiful illusion and adding movement to the silhouette. Refined cocktail dresses came in creative but subtle prints, and a few elegant evening dresses—especially black and white column dresses with fringe—were highlights of the collection.