Entertainment

10.15.13

Daniel Boulud Reveals His 4 Favorite Recipes From His New Cookbook

The famed chef is out with Daniel: My French Cuisine, the definitive cookbook of his legendary 3-Michelin-starred New York restaurant Daniel, and he picks his four favorite dishes for us, including the elaborately detailed and exhaustively precise Squab vadouvan pastille and Miso-glazed sea scallop rosacea. Follow the directions if you dare!

Poulet à l’Estragon

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Thomas Schauer

Rice pilaf and yellow wax beans

Serves 6 to 8

Poulet à l’Estragon

Salt

15        golf ball–size tomatoes

1          tablespoon (14g) butter

2          tablespoons (30ml) olive oil

2          (2- (0.9kg) to 3- pound (1.4kg)) farm-raised chickens, each cut into 8 pieces

Freshly ground white pepper

4          large shallots, sliced

10        ounces (283.5) pearl onions

2          tablespoons (32g) tomato paste

3          tablespoons (24g) flour

1/2       cup tarragon (120ml) vinegar

2          cups (480ml) Chicken Stock (see base recipe)

1/2       bunch tarragon

Rice Pilaf

1 1/2    cups (270g) basmati rice

2          tablespoons (30ml) olive oil

1          shallot, minced

2          tablespoons (28g) butter

2 1/2    cups (600ml) Chicken Stock (see base recipe)

1          teaspoon (2g) salt

1          bay leaf

2          sprigs thyme

2          sprigs tarragon

Yellow Wax Bean Fricassée

Salt

1          pound (0.5kg) yellow wax beans, trimmed

2          tablespoons (28g) butter

Freshly ground white pepper

1/2       bunch tarragon, leaves chopped

daniel-boulud-cover
‘Daniel: My French Cuisine’ by Daniel Boulud and Sylvie Bigar. 416 pp. Grand Central Life & Style. $60. ()

For the Poulet à l’Estragon

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and set a bowl of ice water on the side. Score an X on the bottoms of the tomatoes. Boil them for 5 seconds, or until the skins loosen on the bottoms. Strain and peel under cold running water; set aside.

In a 5-quart (4.7L) braising pan over medium-high heat, melt the butter with the oil. Season the chicken on all sides with salt and pepper.

Add the chicken to the pan skin side down and sear until golden brown on both sides, about 10 minutes total. Transfer the chicken to a platter, set aside, and strain all but 1 tablespoon (15ml) fat from the pan.

Reduce the heat to medium and add the shallots and onions to the pan. Cook, stirring, until the shallots are soft. Add the tomato paste and flour and cook, stirring, for another minute. Add the vinegar, bring to a simmer, then stir in the chicken stock. Bring to a simmer, making sure to scrape the bottom of the pan. Return the chicken to the pan with half of the tomatoes and the tarragon. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the remaining tomatoes, cover, and simmer for another 20 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through.

For the Rice Pilaf

Rinse the rice with cold water until it runs clear. Heat the olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallot and cook, stirring, until translucent. Add the rice and stir to coat. Add the butter, chicken stock, salt, bay leaf, thyme, and tarragon and bring to a simmer. Cover and cook undisturbed over low heat for 10 to 15 minutes. Turn off the heat and rest, covered, for 5 minutes. Remove the lid and fluff the rice with a fork.

For the Yellow Wax Bean Fricassée

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the beans and boil for 4 minutes, or until tender. Strain, return the beans to the pan over medium-low heat, and toss with the butter. Season with salt and pepper and toss in the tarragon leaves just before serving.

Tarte Normande

Serves 8

Dough

3          cups (396g) flour

1          teaspoon (6g) salt

3/4       cup (1 ½ sticks/6oz/168g) chilled butter, cubed

2          egg yolks (20g each)

Filling

6          Gala apples, peeled, cored, and cut in 8 wedges

3/4       cup (97.5g) powdered sugar

5          tablespoons (2 1/2 ounces/70g) butter

1/2       cup (168g) honey

1/4       cup (60ml) calvados

4          teaspoons (2.5g) cornstarch

1/3       cup (67g) sugar

3          eggs (50g each)

1          egg yolk (20g)

1/3       cup (80g) crème fraîche

2          teaspoons vanilla paste

1          cup milk

For the Dough

In the bowl of a food processor, pulse the flour, salt, and butter until it resembles coarse meal. With the machine running, pour in the yolks and 3 1/2 (52.5ml) tablespoons cold water and mix just until the dough holds together. Turn the dough onto a flat surface and flatten into a disc. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour, or until firm.

Preheat the oven to 350°F (177°C). Lightly flour a work surface and roll the dough into a round large enough to fit a 10- (25.5cm) to 12-inch (30.5cm) tart or quiche pan with 1 1/2- (3cm) to 2-inch (5cm) tall sides. Fit the dough in the bottom and up the sides of the pan. Trim excess dough even with the pan’s rim. Line with parchment paper and fill with rice or beans to weigh down the dough. Bake for 15 minutes, remove the tart shell, and reduce the oven temperature to 325°F (163°C). Remove the weights and paper from the dough and return to the oven to bake for another 15 minutes, or until light golden brown.

For the Filling

In a large bowl, toss the apples with 1/4 cup (32.5g) of the powdered sugar and set aside at room temperature for 30 minutes. In a large sauté pan over high heat, lightly brown the butter, add the apples, and toss to coat. Add the honey and cook, stirring, until the apples are golden brown and about halfway cooked. Remove the pan from the heat, pour in the calvados, and carefully flambé. Simmer, stirring, until glazed. Set aside.

In a medium bowl, whisk the cornstarch and sugar to combine. Add the eggs, yolk, crème fraîche, and vanilla paste and whisk until smooth. Stream in the milk, while whisking, to make a smooth batter.

Fan the apples into the tart shell in a single layer. Pour the batter over the top to the rim (reserve any extra). Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean. If the filling sinks while baking, pour in the reserved batter about halfway through.

Remove from the oven and dust with the remaining 1/2 cup (65g) powdered sugar.

Miso-glazed Sea Scallop Rosacea

Brussels sprouts, crispy rice

Serves 4

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Thomas Schauer

Crispy Rice (makes extra)

1/4       cup (49g) short grain sushi rice

Salt

3          tablespoons (24g) rice flour, as needed

Canola oil for frying

Sea Scallop Rosace

8          large sea scallops

Olive oil, as needed

Shallot Confit

6          medium shallots, halved lengthwise

1          cup (240ml) olive oil

1/8       teaspoon (1g) chili flakes

1          teaspoon (5ml) white balsamic vinegar

Salt and freshly ground white pepper

1          tablespoon fresh sliced chive

Black Miso Sauce

1          teaspoon (5ml) olive oil

Scallop mussels and scraps, reserved from above

1          teaspoon (5g) brunoised onion

1          teaspoon (5g brunoised carrot

1          teaspoon (5g) brunoised celery

1/3       cup (80ml) rice vinegar

1/3       cup (80ml) mirin

1          tablespoon (14g) black miso 

1/2       tablespoon (14g) chopped black garlic

1          cup (240ml) Chicken Jus (see base recipe)

Salt and freshly ground white pepper

Stewed Brussels Sprouts

            Salt

16        Brussels sprouts

1          tablespoon (14g) butter

1          tablespoon brunoised (about 15g) carrot

1          tablespoon brunoised (about 15g) onion

1          tablespoon brunoised (about 15g) celery

1          cup (240ml) Chicken Stock (see base recipe)

Freshly ground white pepper

To Finish

Crushed black pepper

Salt and freshly ground white pepper  

3          cloves black garlic, peeled and thinly sliced

1/4       cup purple shiso leaves

1/4       cup chive blossoms

For Crispy Rice

Rinse the rice with cold water until it runs clear. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the rice and boil, stirring occasionally, until very soft, 10 to 15 minutes. Strain the rice and pat it dry with a paper towel. Transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet, sprinkle rice flour over the top, and toss to lightly coat. Spread the rice flat and rest, uncovered, in a warm place for 6 hours, or until dry. Fill one-third of a large saucepan with canola oil and heat to 375°F (190°C). Fry the rice in 3 batches until puffed. Strain onto a paper towel–lined plate.

For the Sea Scallop Rosace

Remove the side muscle from the scallops and reserve. Using a 2-inch (5cm) diameter ring cutter, cut the scallops into straight cylinders; reserve the trim. Slice each scallop into 1/8-inch (3mm) thick discs. Trace 5-inch (12.75cm) circles onto four 6-inch (15.25cm) squares of parchment paper, turn them over, and lightly brush the papers with oil. Layer the slices from 2 scallops on the oiled side of each paper, inside the circles in a slightly overlapping pattern. Top the scallops with another piece of oiled parchment, oiled side down. Repeat to make 4 “rosaces.”  Reserve chilled.

For Shallot Confit

Combine the shallots, olive oil, chili flakes, and vinegar in a small saucepan, making sure the shallots are submerged, and season with salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat to just below a simmer and cook until the shallots are very tender, about 20 minutes. Strain and reserve the oil and keep warm. Just before serving, toss in the chives.

For the Black Miso Sauce

Heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the reserved scallop muscles and scraps and cook, stirring often, until cooked through. Add the onion, carrot, and celery and cook, stirring, until tender, about 2 minutes. Add the vinegar and mirin and simmer until almost dry. Add the miso, black garlic, and jus. Simmer until reduced enough to coat the back of a spoon. Transfer to a blender and puree until smooth. Pass through a fine-meshed sieve, season with salt and pepper, and reserve, chilled.

For Stewed Brussels Sprouts

Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil and place a bowl of ice water to the side. Peel at least 12 green outer leaves from the Brussels sprouts and boil them until tender, about 30 seconds. Chill them in the ice water, strain, pat dry, and reserve for the garnish.

Shave the remaining Brussels sprouts on a mandoline, avoiding the core. Melt the butter in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the carrot, onion, and celery; cook, stirring, until tender, about 3 minutes. Add the shaved Brussels sprouts and stock and bring to a simmer, stirring, until the Brussels sprouts are cooked through, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and keep warm.

To Finish

Preheat the oven to 300°F (149°C). Put the miso sauce in a small saucepan, place over low heat, and stir to heat through; season with crushed black pepper to taste. Remove the top parchment from the scallops, sprinkle with salt and white pepper, and cover again. Transfer to a baking sheet in a single layer and bake for 5 to 6 minutes, until just cooked through.

For each serving, place a 5-inch ring mold in the center of a warm appetizer plate and spoon a layer of stewed Brussels sprouts onto the bottom. Remove the ring from the plate and remove the top layer of parchment from the rosace of cooked scallop. Flip onto the Brussels sprouts and remove the parchment from the top. Glaze with black miso sauce and arrange 3 shallot confit halves, 3 pieces shaved black garlic, a few pieces of purple shiso leaves, and a few Brussels sprout leaves on top. Sprinkle with crispy rice and chive blossoms.

Squab Vadouvan Pastille

Young radishes, avocado chutney

Serves 4

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Thomas Schauer


Vadouvan Marinated Squab Breasts

2          squabs (about 7oz/200g each) with heart and livers

1/4       cup (60g) thick lamb or goat yogurt

2          tablespoons (30ml) heavy cream

1 1/2    teaspoons (3g) Vadouvan spice (we recommend La Boîte à Epice)

2          tablespoons (30g) crème fraîche

Salt and freshly ground white pepper

Squab Leg Pastilla

2          ounces (56g) fresh grade A foie gras, small diced

1          teaspoon (2g) Vadouvan spice

1/2       teaspoon (3g) salt

1/8       teaspoon (1g) freshly ground white pepper

4          sheets brik dough (feuille de brique)

1          egg (50g), beaten

Vadouvan Jus 

1          tablespoon (15ml) olive oil

Bones from 2 squabs, reserved from above

1          tablespoon (6g) Vadouvan spice

1          cup (240ml) Chicken Stock (see base recipe)

Avocado Chutney

1          (9.5oz/270g) ripe avocado, pitted and peeled

1          tablespoon (15ml) lemon juice

1          tablespoon (7g) seeded and diced jalapeño pepper

1/2       teaspoon (1g) vadouvan spice

1          splash Tabasco sauce

1          pinch of piment d’Espelette

1/2       teaspoon (3g) salt

Freshly ground white pepper to taste

Glazed Radishes

14        large red radishes

4          small breakfast radishes with stems

1/4       cup (60ml) Chicken Stock (see base recipe)

1          tablespoon (14g) butter

            Salt and freshly ground white pepper

To Finish

3          tablespoons (45ml) olive oil

Vadouvan spice

8          small nasturtium leaves

For the Vadouvan-Marinated Squab Breasts

Extract the hearts and livers from the squab cavities. Carve the breasts and legs from the squabs. Pull the tenderloins from the breasts and reserve, chilled, with the hearts, livers, and legs for the pastilla. Chop the wings and bones into 1-inch (2.5cm) pieces, rinse with cold water, pat dry, and reserve, chilled, for the jus.

In a small saucepan, combine the yogurt, cream, and vadouvan spice and bring to a simmer. Remove from the heat, cover, and infuse for 5 minutes. Pour through a fine-meshed sieve and chill. Stir in the crème fraîche and season with salt and pepper. Transfer half of the sauce to a resealable bag and add the squab breasts, turning them to coat. Marinate, refrigerated, overnight. Reserve the remaining sauce for finishing, chilled.

For the Squab Leg Pastilla

Carve the thigh bones from the legs, being sure not to puncture the skin; reserve the bones for the jus. Leave the remaining bones and feet attached.

Finely chop the tenderloins, hearts, and livers and transfer them to a medium bowl. Add the foie gras, vadouvan, salt, and pepper and mix well.

Cut the brik dough into 4 isosceles triangles with a 4-inch (10cm) wide base and a 3-inch (7.5cm) height. Keep the sheets covered with plastic wrap while working.

Assemble the pastillas one at a time by laying a dough triangle on a flat surface with the middle point facing down, then lightly brush it with the egg. Place a leg skin side down in the middle of the triangle with the foot pointed up so that the top edge of the dough is aligned where the joint would be. With your fingertips, press approximately 2 tablespoons of stuffing onto the thigh. Wrap one top corner of dough down over the thigh. Fold the opposite top corner down over the top and press to adhere. Fold the bottom tip of dough up and press to seal into a packet. Repeat the process to make 4 pastillas.

For the Vadouvan Jus 

Heat the olive oil in a medium saucepan over high heat. Add the squab bones and sear on all sides, about 5 minutes total. Add the vadouvan spice and cook, stirring, for 1 minute, or until very fragrant. Add the chicken stock and simmer until reduced; the thickness should be enough to coat the back of a spoon. Strain through a fine-meshed sieve and keep warm.

For the Avocado Chutney

Place all the ingredients in a small bowl. Mash with a fork until well combined but small chunks of avocado still remain. Season with salt and pepper. Place a sheet of plastic wrap on the surface of the avocado chutney and store, chilled.

For the Glazed Radishes

Trim the radishes, leaving a bit of the stem, and rinse. With a mandoline, shave 2 of the red radishes from stem to tip into a small bowl of ice water. Trim the breakfast radishes, leaving a small leaf sprig attached, then quarter them lengthwise halfway up from the tips; submerge them in the ice water and reserve for the garnish.

Cut the remaining red radishes in half. Use a 3/4-inch (2cm) ring cutter to cut 4 cylinders from 8 of the halves. Transfer the halves and cylinders to a medium sauté pan with the chicken stock and butter and bring to a simmer. Season with salt and pepper and cook over medium heat until the chicken stock and butter have reduced to a glaze and the radishes are tender, about 10 minutes. Keep warm.

To Finish

Preheat the broiler.

Heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat and sear the pastilla legs for 4 minutes on each side, until crispy and golden brown.

Remove the squab breasts from the marinade and place on a baking sheet lined with aluminum foil. Broil the breasts for 6 to 8 minutes, flipping halfway through, until medium rare (internal temperature of 135°F (57°C)). Spoon the reserved yogurt sauce onto the breasts in the last 2 minutes of cooking.

For each portion, set a breast on the bottom of a warm plate and set a large spoonful of avocado chutney alongside it. Set 1 leg pastilla against the breast, with the foot sticking up. Arrange 2 glazed radish halves, 2 radish cylinders, and 1 breakfast radish around the squab. Spoon a few dots of jus around the squab and sprinkle a pinch of vadouvan spice onto the plate. Garnish with 2 nasturtium leaves and a few radish shavings.