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Napa’s Earthquake Is Not The Only Thing Shaking The Vineyards

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Violence gave birth to more variations of soil than can be found in all of France. That makes for unparalleled wines, but also for the dangerous temptation to label every variety as unique.

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Robert Galbraith/Reuters

Some time ago, say a few million years ago, several tectonic plates collided. The resulting geological violence created two adjacent valleys in northern California. Things never quite settled down and occasionally the earth still rocks, as it did in Napa a week ago.

“Now I know we’re on top of a...

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