EXCERPT
Paul Freedman writes about this pivotal moment in his new book, “American Cuisine: And How It Got This Way.”
Paul Freedman is a history professor at Yale University. He is the author of the new book American Cuisine: And How It Got This Way and Ten Restaurants That Changed America, which was named a Washington Post Notable Book of the Year and praised as “essential” by the Wall Street Journal Magazine. He lives in Pelham, New York.