First American to Conquer Everest Dies at 97
His place in history was secured in 1963, when he reached Everest’s summit alongside Nawang Gombu.
LINDSEY WASSON/REUTERS
Jim Whittaker, the legendary climber who became the first American to summit Mount Everest, has died at 97. Whittaker died Tuesday at his home in Port Townsend, Washington, according to his family, who remembered him as a man who shared “adventure, joy, and optimism” wherever he went. His place in history was secured in 1963, when he reached Everest’s summit alongside Nawang Gombu, helping ignite America’s fascination with mountaineering. The climb made him an instant celebrity and helped fuel the growth of the outdoor industry. Whittaker also played a major role at REI, joining the co-op in 1955 as its first full-time employee and later serving as president and CEO. During his leadership, the company’s membership surged, and he became a prominent voice for wilderness conservation. Beyond Everest, he led expeditions around the world and championed outdoor access, environmental protection, and peace through climbing.
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