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Marcella Hazan

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Marcella Hazan Jamie Kripke Restaurant

Oliveto in Oakland, California, has only one flaw: It’s not open 365 days a year.

My test of a restaurant’s food is to ask “How soon after having a meal there would I want to go back?” If I lived in the San Francisco Bay area, I could eat at Oliveto in Oakland every day. Paul Canales, Oliveto’s chef, has found and taken unfailing command of what everyone who cooks struggles to discover: the straight road to pure, sincere, deeply satisfying flavor. I could choose from one of Paul’s menus by throwing a dart at it, knowing I could never make a mistake.

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July 28, 2009 | 7:14pm
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arockridgelife

I agree wholeheartedly!

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2:18 pm, Jul 29, 2009
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by Marcella Hazan

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