New York Fashion Week Has Plans to See Us Back at Happy Hour
As with most other NYFW collections, Cinq à Sept, Social-Work Studio, Theophilio, and Kim Shui showed their wares online—but they imagined a future time of dressing up to head out.
Cinq à Sept
Cinq à Sept presented a lively boho collection for fall 2021, bringing on the paisley for New York Fashion Week in a playful music video filled with the atmosphere of the late sixties and early seventies. Designer Jane Siskin’s collection captured the easy-going casual essence that the brand is both known for and named after (Cinq à Sept is a French term for “happy hour” period of the day).
The brand said that the collection was “inspired by muses” English model and photographer Pattie Boyd and equally English actress and singer Marianne Faithfull, both of whom embodied the mix of British poshness and the bohemian aesthetic of that very unique period that bridged the 1960s and 1970s.
The models jovially jumped around a nearly empty loft-like interior while wearing flowing dresses in an array of vintage inspired floral patterns. The 1970s was in full force in a very St Laurent-safari-suit-looking one-piece leather outfit. Prairie chic made its way into tiered dresses and ruffled shirts, while high waisted jeans rounded out the look. Nubby tweeds and posh suiting with soft collared shirts completed the sophisticated bohemian collection that the modern woman might wear out, hopefully, to happy hour sometime soon. Sarah Shears
Social-Work Studio is a fashion brand that has positioned itself as embracing and promoting workers rights, shedding a much-needed light on those who toil in factories while connecting consumers with maker.
In a serendipitous twist, the new online platform has helped to further foster that connection now that the brand’s shows can be accessed by anyone with a computer and a wifi connection, and not just the rarified few inside the fashion world.
The collection was “a collective story of nostalgia and surrealism,” the show notes read, and indeed it was. Models wore bell-bottomed ensembles of matching patterned knits in 1970s-style earthy tones. Long, exaggerated point-y collars adorned dress shirts, jackets and dresses, and storm flaps embellished long coats and an olive green pair of coveralls. It was a collection that was youthful and fun, yet pragmatic enough that the wearer would—theoretically—be ready for anything, which in our new world might very well be needed. SS
Edvin Thompson’s fall collection for Theophilio, titled “Solace,” celebrates the ever-changing definition of what it means to be a “hero” in America. “From front line workers to teachers, protesters and activists, parents to children, it is apparent heroes are right in front of us and more so, within us,” the show notes read.
Thompson also took nods from The Matrix, and the idea of “finding the superhero in all of us.” But you won’t find any capes in his collection, which has his signature punchy, contemporary edge. There’s something very Y2K about the looks, which would make a ‘90s Keanu Reeves proud, especially when it comes to some mid-rise bootcut jeans in an acid color palette. The standout piece is a black leather dress with a keyhole neckline and color-blocked sleeves fit for a cartoon heroine. Alaina Demopoulos
Kim Shui wins the distinction of having simultaneously the best and worst inspiration for her fall collection: “KS Fall Winter 2021 is inspired by that island trip she didn’t go on.” (Sorry, Kim!) And so the designer, known for her slinky looks, conjured up an “imaginary escape” for herself.
The pieces all come in a kaleidoscope of colors, and are as vibrant as some birds of paradise. So many of these pieces bare midriff, underboob, or other fleshy peek-a-boos they might make one nostalgic for the days when we could “go out.” But look closely and you will notice that some of the outfits are sneakily wearable, and very commercial, like a pair of corduroy pants with jacquard paneling and silk button-up tops in bright hues. It’s all very sexy, but celebrates a gaze where women are in charge. Consider Kim Shui the official outfitter of our first nights back out, whenever that may be. Hopefully by that time, she’ll be off on her island. AD