FANCY FOOD

Hot Dog vs. Haute Dog

What did the Buddhist say to the hot dog vendor? Make me one with everything. Hot dogs, or, as the kids are calling them, "haute dogs," are establishing themselves as the food trend of the summer here in New York. Both Adam Platt of New York Magazine and Ed Levine of Serious Eats investigate into the best hot dog this town has to offer. From hot dogs designed by Momofuku's David Chang (bacon-wrapped and covered with kimchi) to franks by celebrity chef Wylie Dufresne (served with a breaded and deep-fried mayo baton and tomato molasses, freeze-dried onions, and shredded romaine) to the Fatty Crab dog by Zak Pelaccio (with pork shoulder, fat back, fermented shrimp, and lots of Thai chilies), there's going to be a haute dog for every taste. And for those of us with a hankering for the classics? "If all you want is a truly first-rate all-beef hot dog with plenty of snap," says Levine, "head to your nearest Papaya King or Gray's Papaya...It's sweet, salty, spicy, and meaty at the same time. What could be better?"