Why People Are Smuggling Illicit, Delicious Butter Into Wisconsin
SO GOOD IT’S A CRIME
‘America’s Dairyland’ requires a stamp of approval to sell butter, freezing out artisanal creameries. It’s led gourmands to cross state lines and producers to churn out lawsuits.
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Jean Smith is kind of modern day bootlegger, but she doesn’t smuggle liquor—she moves butter.
Routinely crammed in her car is a stockpile of butter imported from Ireland.
