While scanning the skincare aisle for that retinol your friend swears is like “Botox in a bottle,” would you expect to encounter a preteen reaching for the same product? In case you needed even more evidence of social media’s dire consequences for young people, the “Get Ready With Me” trend on social media has young beauty influencers—some who are just seven years old—and their equally young followers flocking to TikTok to show off over-the-top skincare routines, which include an array of acids and even anti-aging serums. (You know, for all those crow’s feet we develop in the third grade.)
While it’s never too early to get acquainted with the benefits of, say, sunscreen, these extensive and pricey beauty rituals are prompting concern among experts, who warn of the potential harm GRWM videos may have on the delicate minds (and complexions) of children and teens—often the target demographics for these types of videos.
A recent study published in the American Academy of Pediatrics by scientists at Northwestern Medicine concluded that watching and replicating these viral beauty rituals could negatively impact young users’ complexions and psyches.
Their analysis of 100 viral videos starring girls ages seven to 18 found that their routines consisted of an average of six products—though some step-by-steps can feature up to 12—and ran the gamut of products, including potent serums, creams, and retinoids. (While some teens are prescribed retinols, such as tretinoin, to address acne, this type of treatment regimen should only be undertaken with a doctor’s guidance and supervision.)
Each routine comes with a hefty price tag, too, with the study’s authors calculating an average monthly cost of $168, with some products marked as high as $500—a far cry from the under-$10 Noxzema cleansers or Ponds creams used by millennials as teens. But the damage can go beyond simply impacting parents’ bank accounts. “We found significant dermatologic risks associated with these regimens,” said Dr. Molly Hales, corresponding author of the study and postdoctoral research fellow at Northwestern University.
The authors found that the girls were using an average of 11 potentially harmful ingredients per routine, leaving many at a heightened risk of developing allergic contact dermatitis and other skin issues. Worryingly, only a quarter of the videos showed the girls incorporating a sunscreen product, a universally recommended step for people of all ages to incorporate into their daily regimen.
Aside from the dangers of physical harm, the researchers also raised red flags about the risk for psychological distress: “It’s problematic to show girls devoting this much time and attention to their skin,” said Hales. Dr. Tara Lagu, senior author and adjunct professor at Northwestern University, added that much of the content also featured “preferential, encoded racial language” that, in some cases, “emphasized lighter, brighter skin.”
“The pursuit of health has become a kind of virtue in our society, but the ideal of ‘health’ is also very wrapped up in ideals of beauty, thinness, and whiteness,” said Hales. “The insidious thing about ‘skincare’ is that it claims to be about health.”
Is it practical to assume parents can steer preteens and teens away from GRWM videos altogether? Probably not, and there’s a high chance that they’ll encounter skincare tips from their peers anyway; regrettable beauty advice is arguably a rite of passage. But there’s a big difference between inadvisable brow trends and permanent skin damage, making it all the more important to be conscious of what kids are watching and to communicate with them about product safety, realistic (and unrealistic) expectations, and age-appropriate skincare. Simply put, most elementary schoolers should probably skip the “age-fighting serums” and just enjoy recess.