Bagels from B&B Empire are the Daily Pic by Blake Gopnik

Montreal bagels at B&B Empire in Brooklyn

One of the great aesthetic moments: Bagels – Montreal bagels – coming out of a wood-fired oven. (As they must to be Montreal bagels.) I don’t believe in fixed artistic truths, except for the obvious and necessary truth, no discussion allowed, that Montreal bagels are orders of magnitude better than the rolls-with-holes that New Yorkers are stuck eating. Now, however, a bakery in Brooklyn Heights called B&B Empire is offering the real thing to bagel-deprived locals. It seems the founders were on a visit to Quebec when they discovered the glories of Montreal’s version, and decided to duplicate it. The facsimile isn’t exact. B&B bagels are a touch too fluffy, which means they don’t offer quite enough chew. But they come surprisingly close to nirvana.

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