The similarities between Alexander Wang and Marc Jacobs range from the literal to the more subtle. For starters, both designers were schooled at Parsons in NYC and launched their debut namesake collections while still students (although the former dropped out before graduation to fully launch into the fashion game). While their aesthetic may differ substantially (Wang's clothes are markedly more sexually charged than Jacobs'), Wang's clientele distinctly mirrors that of Jacobs': Young, urban 'It' girls. Not to mention, Wang and Jacobs are both suckers for myriad muses. Jacobs has famously sought inspiration in the likes of Lil’ Kim, Sofia Coppola, and Madonna (most recently, for Louis Vuitton), while Wang began channeling model Erin Wasson (who likewise styled his early shows), before moving onto model Alice Dellal and, most recently, model Dree Hemingway (his date to the CFDA's latest event). And while Jacobs oversees Louis Vuitton and a number of namesake lines (including men's and women's wear as well as according diffusion lines), Wang is following suit--having just launched men's wear in addition to his women's wear, accessories and diffusion line (T by Alexander Wang), Wang is rapidly expanding his repertoire.
Henry S. Dziekan III / Retna; David Goldman / AP Photo
The late Yves Saint Laurent left behind a sartorial legacy no designer can duplicate. But, out of all of the young designers rising in the industry, Chris Benz's penchant for designing refined, yet accessible, wearable clothing distinctly reflects the Algerian-born designer's approach; after all, Saint Laurent was the first haute couture designer to ever put forth a ready-to-wear line. Benz's has likewise looked to contemporary art (pulling blues from an Yves Klein painting, for instance, last season) for inspiration, whereas Saint Laurent had his Mondrian dress among other Pop Art-influenced creations. Benz has followed Saint Laurent's lead in taking classic period staples (i.e. the military jacket) and updating them with modern fabrics and a slight adjustment of silhouette. Not to mention, Saint Laurent's approach to femininity always bore a certain amount of restraint, as has Benz's in recent seasons. The former is perhaps best remembered for introducing Le Smoking (a tailored tuxedo) into women's wardrobes for the first time.
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For many, Calvin Klein may be synonymous with classic denim and envelope-pushing advertisements. But the designer, whose namesake house has remained strong for decades, has a significantly different reputation when it comes to higher-end fashion. Namely, he's been dubbed "the master of minimalism." In the case of Joseph Altuzarra, the same could be said. The young designer, soon to present the third season of his eponymous, New York-based label, has garnered quite a reputation in a relatively short amount of time. Having honed his sartorial skills while working at Givenchy post-college, the 25-year-old, since branching out on his own, has found fans in French Vogue editor Carine Roitfeld, as well as Ikram Goldman, the Michelle Obama-favored Chicago boutique which will begin stocking Altuzarra's wares come fall. Altuzarra's last collection focused on the kind of body-con cocktail dresses and slim, finely tailored pantsuits that appeal to twentysomethings as well as women more than twice their age. Meaning, while Altuzarra has played with fur and fringe ornamentation in the past, at their core, his designs harbor a sleek sensibility infused with fine tailoring and a focus on highlighting the body through subtlety as opposed to theatrics.
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Speaking of tailoring, the similarities between L.A.-based Scott Sternberg (the face behind the men's line Band of Outsiders and the women's line Boy) and Georgia Armani circa the Reagan administration are strikingly similar. Essentially, each designer has redefined the suit for their respective eras--and in each case that applies to both men's and women's wear. Renowned for excellence in tailoring and clean silhouettes, Armani helped pave the way for where Sternberg has picked up today. While Armani's sartorial leanings are rooted in his Italian upbringing, Sternberg's aesthetic is decidedly American. Not to mention, Sternberg, a CAA alumnae, is a marketing maven--a department where Armani has proved no slouch himself (the latter's empire is estimated to be worth $2.8 billion).
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While Pasadena, California-bred and -based designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte are surely forging new territory with their relatively young brand, similarities exist between the sisters and designer heavyweights like Jean-Paul Gaultier. While looks from each designer's collection would nary compliment one another on a runway, the links lie in what's behind the creations. Specifically, each brand is synonymous with evocative, emotionally charged fashion. And Rodarte's interest in textiles and innovation echoes what the Parisian designer has been doing for years. While Rodarte hasn't pushed enough sartorial buttons nor entertained catwalk theatrics to the extent that would garner the enfant terrible reputation of Gaultier, they no doubt march to the beat of their own drum. Meaning, there's still hope for provocation in the future.
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Having gone from relatively obscurity to a household name after Michelle Obama donned his dress for the inaugural balls in January, young designer Jason Wu has had some rather large shoes to fill. But, fortunately, the 26-year-old has risen to the task unfazed. Having recently debuted his first Resort collection presentation (a rite of passage typically rarely taken by young designers these days), Wu is working hard to establish his namesake brand as a destination for formal wear (not to mention he's executed street wear exceptionally well in recent seasons). In other words, should Oscar de la Renta forgo designing in the near future, Park Avenue princesses will no doubt find Wu filling the void left behind rather well.
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Colombian-born fashion designer Esteban Cortazar launched onto the fashion scene when most people his age were studying for the SATs. The youngest designer to have ever shown at Miami Fashion Week soon gathered enough critical acclaim and industry support to be appointed creative director of Ungaro (where he's been since December of 2007). While Cortazar's Latin roots and Miami upbringing no doubt inform his designs, his taste for high-intensity color and dramatic silhouettes mirror sartorial habits of the recently retired legend Valentino Garavani. Both designers are synonymous with translating extravagance and opulence into elegant creations.
Update: Esteban Cortazar has left Emanuel Ungaro. While WWD is reporting that the break was mutual, rumors have been brewing since early June that Cortazar was unhappy with the company's interest in hiring Lindsay Lohan as a creative consultant and threatened to depart his position at the house's helm if the actress was hired. The name of Cortazar's successor has not yet been released. Pascal Rossignol / Reuters; RD, Dziekan / Retna
Central Saint Martin grad Gareth Pugh took the fashion industry by storm when he was still a student. Having graduated and assumed a reputation of "one to watch" in recent seasons, the British designer hasn't skimped on drama or theatrics when it comes to his high-intensity designs (think inflated clothing and chain mail basics). The designer approaches design in much the same way as envelope-pushing Alexander McQueen (likewise a CSM alumnae), who this past season shocked and awed his Fashion Week audience with models outfitted in sex-doll lips and umbrella hats. McQueen has also never been a stranger to staging unconventional runway shows, a passion for which Pugh also shares. This past season, Pugh opted to show his women's wear collection via a short, experimental film.
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The comparisons between Christopher Kane and Gianni Versace date back beyond the young designer's recent collaboration with the latter's namesake fashion house for the capsule accessories collection for Versus Versace. The 27-year-old Scottish designer, like Gareth Pugh, caught the eye of the fashion industry before graduating from Central Saint Martin. Since then, Kane has masterfully crafted covetable collection after collection, meanwhile proving he's no one-trick pony. Drawing on street wear as well as high fashion, Kane has managed to serve up designs that blend high and low season after season (likewise a skill of the late Versace). Another parallel lies in each designer's working with family with regard to fashion; while Versace's sister Donatella started out doing PR for the designer's namesake fashion line, he later helped her launch a diffusion line all her own: Versus. Similarly, Kane developed his namesake line with the help of his sister, Tammy Kane.
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