Going 10 Rounds With Sommelier David Giuliano

What do you like to drink after a shift? “It certainly changes with the seasons, but this summer has been all about a Tom Collins with Plymouth Gin. Simple and refreshing. I’ve also been known to make a rosé spritzer, but don’t tell anybody.”

What is the all-time best dive bar jukebox song? “It’s a tossup between “Jack & Diane” by John Mellencamp and “Holiday” by Madonna.”

Name the first good wine you ever drank and where you had it. “Growing up in California in the ’80s and ’90s my Dad had a small but quality collection of early California cabernet before everything got super-sized. I remember him sharing a glass of Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour Cab with me on some special occasion and it made a lasting impression.”  

What book on wine, cocktails, spirits or food is your go-to resource? “Kevin Zraly’s Windows on the World Complete Wine Course is my go-to for wine and Jim Meehan’s Bartender Manual is my new favorite for cocktails.”

Name the wine region that took you the longest to truly understand. “Definitely Burgundy. It might seem straightforward with only two grapes and basically the same terroir throughout. But to truly understand the impact of its micro-terroir and the subtleties of the great winemakers’ stylistic choices takes a lifetime of study and tasting. Though only miles apart Meursault and Auxey-Duresses will always taste different and those nuances, and the reasons behind them will forever fascinate me.”   

What’s your favorite wine and food pairing? “Grilled lamb with a northern Rhone syrah.”   

What’s the most common wine myth you have to debunk? “Beaujolais is so much more than Beaujolais Nouveau. Many people hear Beaujolais and think of the light, punchy harvest wine. But in reality, the wines from the great crus of Beaujolais can be very complex and profound with wonderful pairing potential at the table.”  

What’s your favorite bottle of wine under $20? “Typically, when I’m reaching for a under $20 bottle, I’m reaching for rosé. You can find great value and quality from some of the less well-known rosé appellations, like Corsica, Austria and Sicily.”  

What’s your favorite bottle of wine over $500? “An older vintage bottle of Jamet or Guigal Côte Rôtie or a bottle of Conterno Monfortino Barolo from the ’80s.”  

What tool do you use to open a bottle? “My best friend bought me a Laguiole Corkscrew carved from some fallen trees at Versailles. It’s beautiful and very sturdy. I’ll use a Durand Corkscrew for older or trickier bottles.”

David Giuliano is the beverage director of New York’s Market Table, The Clam and The Little Owl.

Interview has been condensed and edited.