The morning session of “New York Men’s Day,” the ninth biannual menswear collective presentations this year ushering in the 10-day marathon of New York Fashion Week, saw casual-wear given smart silhouettes, and sweaters deconstructed but not so wildly you couldn’t lounge around in them on a Sunday morning. Colors were refreshingly splashed all over. And men, it is time to reclaim the beret.
BRISTOL
Founder Luke Tadashi’s first forays into design were through the game of basketball, and the influence of sportswear is still visible. Here too a brave attempt to make men wear off-the-shoulder.
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Everyone, this is the new way to wear sweaters. Like sashes. You are your own cold weather beauty queen!
Kelly Caminero
Practical, unitarian, and an unsually effective advertisement for oatmeal as a color.
Kelly Caminero
Keen gardeners will note that this is not a practical bag.
Kelly Caminero
Note the asymmetrical tying of the jumper over shoulder and chest: Even straight guys can dress like divas now.
Kelly CamineroHEAD OF STATE
Taofeek Abijako’s label believes in furthering a philosophy of “thoughtful, inconspicuous, and honest designs.”
Sportswear with various twists, including a handy stomach pocket! Headbands are back.
Kelly Caminero
Blousons should never be underestimated. Beautifully cut and coordinated here.
Kelly Caminero
Lovely colors, and lovely recasting of vintage shapes and styles. The best echoes of sartorial past.
Kelly CamineroDAVID HART
Having designed for Anna Sui, Tommy Hilfiger, and Ralph Lauren, Hart set up his own label in 2013.
We do not see enough plum. Here is some plum, and perfectly coordinated with pinks, oranges, and blues. Is that a baguette in his bag, or is he just pleased to see us?
David Carlo
Stripes, badges (because protest is always a good idea), and royal blue. And the lost art of the beret, Needed: no body fat, sheer cheekbones.
David Carlo
Beautiful jersey, wonderfully customized trousers, and more stripes. Fashion as fun.
David Carlo
Arran sweaters never die. Here reimagined with candy stripe shirts, roll-neck, and blue trousers. Excellent hat.
David CarloDIPLOMACY
“Championing civility, we stand for form and function. Informalist in style, instinctual in action. We’re dressing down and leveling up,” say Diplomacy. Not sure what the second sentence means, but anyone championing civility has our vote.
Mean, moody, pouty, plus shades!
Kelly Caminero
All bases covered. Moody black jacket and trousers combo, plus—very practical for the rain—brilliant red and black check.
Kelly Caminero
Sportswear shall be layered.
Kelly Caminero
