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How One Chef Is Trying to Turn Virginia Into a Mushroom Mecca

Fungus Among Us

Eugene Hudders has fallen for fungi—in a big way.

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Courtesy Max Watman

I met my prospective mushroom guru, Eugene Hudders, for a late lunch at The Horseshoe restaurant in South Hill, Virginia, where he is the head cook.

The room is decorated in mostly white and green, and we got a booth in the back corner among the old photos, tin signs, and...

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