Look, no pants! Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana sent models down their fall runway not only to keep the underwear trend around for another season—but also to highlight their impeccably tailored jackets. The show's title was "Sartorialita, Sicilianita, Sensualita"—directly inspired by Dolce's Sicilian roots. But lingerie-inspired pieces looked unusually wearable this season, and mingled nicely with thick knit sweaters, sheer floral dresses, and skirt suits. The collection was topped off with another nice touch: models in big, gold-plated headphones—which will surely soon replace Apple earbuds. "She wears the suit, but it's accessorized with headphones and an iPod," Gabbana told The Telegraph. "This is the new woman."
Venturelli / WireImage
In her notes for the show, Angela Missioni described her collection as "Africa meets Scotland, folk meets punk." A motley group of looks paraded around the runway: fur-trimmed collars on thick, patterned robes; swags of pink over bandeau bras; vaguely grunge plaids. But stacked, African-inspired necklines united the looks. And things were all in the family: Angela Missoni designed the clothes, and her daughter, Margherita, designed the collection's futuristic jewels.
Alberto Pellaschiar / AP Photo
A model walks down the runway during the Prada fashion show, part of Milan Fashion Week, Milan on February 25, 2010 in Milan.
Chris Moore / Getty Images
Shades of brown blanketed the runway at Ferragamo, where Massimiliano Giornetti channeled menswear in a collection of leather trimmed coats, wide-shouldered jackets, and tailored shorts. But there was, thankfully, femininity in the eveningwear, where long bronze dresses added a touch of playfulness to the collection.
Venturelli / WireImage
Things were night and day at Gucci, where designer Frida Giannini debuted a powerful lineup of cream separates: straight-leg pants, cut-out mini-dresses, and supple coats. A dark streak featured a cropped charcoal jacket, gray fur, and a sleek (and again, cut-out) dress. In her program notes, Giannini explained that she was inspired by two boom-times for the company: the Seventies and the Nineties. And on the runway, she personalized a season-wide trend, the camel cocoon coat, with a wide-lapel. And, at night, the disco influence also prevailed: sleeves were adorned with black feathers, sequins rained down sheer dresses, and lace resembled snakeskin.
Alberto Pellaschiar / AP Photo
Grab your caftan! Looks on the Etro runway could have been straight off the walls of a decorative living room. Designer Veronica Etro said the collection was inspired by the interiors of Tony Duquette's and Rudolf Nureyev's homes. Pajama pants, according to Women's Wear Daily, "nodded to the walls of Nureyev's residence off the Amalfi coast." The collection featured an exotic lineup of silk robes, gold lampshade necklaces, Asian-inspired floral prints—even sparkling turbans.
Giuseppe Cacace / AFP / Getty Images
Giorgio Armani called his collection "The New Chic." And so it was: vaguely nineties red power blazers and tailored shorts paraded down the runway. Orange and pink printed silks channeled new volume in structured shoulders—but full-length dresses stayed strictly classic, with sweeping asymmetrical neck-lines and glittering broaches.
Alberto Pellaschiar / AP Photo
In the separates department, Bottega Veneta was unanimously dark and baggy—at first. Leather jackets looked like lab coats, tailored slacks resembled harem pants. But as hemlines climbed, colors warmed: a dress above the saw a splash of tan, shorter still and the color flushed red. And it was a celebration of color for the finale: a series of long pink dresses blanketed the runway.
Filippo Monteforte / AFP / Getty Images
Jil Sander's Raf Simons debuted a fresh collection of crisply tailored separates. He explained that the collection was about "Women who have a target, and go for it."
Antonio Calanni / AP Photo
At Marni, Consuelo Castiglioni let loose in a series of unconventional looks that simultaneously played with shape, prints, and texture—ranging from culottes to feathered shoulder pads.
Antonio Calanni / AP Photo
This isn't your normal Versace. On her fall runway, Donatella departed from her usual fare, and ventured into the (very badass) future. The collection, which Cathy Horyn called "charged with new energy," featured super-structured leathers, shocks of bright color, and metallic mini-dresses. Eveningwear continued the collection's narrative on futurism—but stayed true to the brand's roots. Down the runway came gowns of every color with slits up-to-there, and, of course, big chunks of fabric cut out on every side.
Antonio Calanni / AP Photo
Restraint reigned supreme on Alberta Ferretti's Fall runway, where every look was more muted than the next. Muted—yet never monotone. The collection existed in a subtle palette of beiges, grays, creams, and teals. But textures made each look luxurious and romantic: creamy silks, feminine furs and, for evening, a sheer silver beaded mini-dress.
Giuseppe Cacace / Newscom
Many collections this season have experimented with shape and volume—but Miuccia Prada was one of the few to dive into it. She debuted a lineup of voluptuous women—including Victoria's Secret Angels Doutzen Kroes, Miranda Kerr, and Alessandra Ambrosio. The result was a curvier, sexier, and more feminine collection that was still prim and conservative. Dark prints, high necks, and low hemlines dominated. "Ms. Prada loves to examine our sentimentality about women and beauty," wrote Cathy Horyn, "And in some respects this was her most assertive anti-fashion statement in awhile."
Christophe Simon / AFP / Getty Images
Cocoons and A-lines dominated at Fendi, where Karl Lagerfeld presented a lineup of highly architectural jackets and sporty tunics. The collection kicked off with a color-blocked jacket so unusual it looked like animal skins had gotten mixed up at the furrier: white arms, gray pockets, black collar. The entire collection was fresh and well-rounded, but highlights included a lady-like motorcycle pant (scalloped suede where you want it) and a black velvet skirt-suit with sheer, billowing sleeves.
Alberto Pellaschiar / AP Photo
