Soft classical music wafted through the Park Avenue Armory as the crowd took their seats at Marc Jacobs's fall show Monday night. But as soon as the show began (a minute early, by our watch) all that was put to rest: Marilyn Manson raged through the speakers and a series of muscular jackets flew down the runway. It might have been Valentine's Day, but these were no Hallmark clothes. There were patent leather skirts, towering platform heels, and numerous outfits embellished with mirrored blocks and sequins. There was a furry gorilla jacket with puffy sleeves; several lace dresses, and sailor pants. Celebrities in attendance included Whoopi Goldberg, who arrived with Andre Leon Talley and said, "I thought it was kind of beautiful. I couldn't wear the clothes, but I appreciated them." Martha Stewart was also there, taking pictures of the affair for her blog. She didn't mind that the skirts, which went just below the knee, were a little restrictive. "That's my favorite length," she said. Still, she seemed to acknowledge a few reservations about some of the most extreme shoes. "It's great no one fell in them," she said. "They are difficult to walk in."
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Introducing Fantastic Mr. Fox—Olsen-twin style! Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen showed The Row in their Chelsea showroom Monday. But unlike other shows this week, their presentation was distinctly no-frills: They skipped on models in favor of hangers, and explained to editors and buyers their goals with each piece in the collection. But the sparseness stopped there. The collection itself was far more luxurious than it has been in the past—economy be damned!—and included goat-hair overcoats dyed to look like leopard, as well as a short jacket in "double-face" fox. The coat looked the same both inside and out, they explained, thanks to a particular construction technique that removes the need for a lining. They were inspired by The Triplets of Belleville and Fantastic Mr. Fox. The collection also featured marigold trousers, as well as several luxuriously knit cashmere pullovers. The Olsens introduced a line of handbags as well, ranging from leather backpacks to small-frame handbags that were surprisingly light, given their formal construction. And the sisters launched a collaboration with Toms, for a line of shoes in cashmere and wool that range in price from about $98 to $150. Of course, with each pair of shoes purchased, Toms gives a pair of shoes to a child in need. (Although surely, the kids will not be getting cashmere shoes!)
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For Donna Karan, it was a season of subtle changes. First, she moved her show from its longtime Greenwich Street location to Cedar Lake in Chelsea. (Before the show, an inordinate amount of attention appeared to be focused on her daughter, Gabby, who is looking more and more like Donna with every passing minute.) Then she debuted a collection softer and more feminine than we've seen from her in years. The collection, called "Pearls of Wisdom," was inspired by the gemstones, and captured their iridescence as well as polish and formality.
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At Donna Karan, cigarette skirts in shades of ivory, taupe, and gray clung to the models' hips and lush jackets in cashmere and tweed were cinched at the waist with slender belts. Jersey dresses twisted and slithered around the body. And sky-high heels perched on platforms gave the models a powerful stature.
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In September, Olivier Theyskens, former creative director of Nina Ricci, unveiled his collection for Theory, Theyskens' Theory, an affordable collection with his unique sensibility. On Monday, Theyskens returned with a strong sophomore collection for the brand. Two silhouettes dominated: one that was long and and lean, with skirts that grazed the ankles, and coats that nearly swept the floor. The counterpoint to that languid sensibility were several micro-mini dresses that barely covered the derriere. The colors were dark and reflected Theyskens' affection for Gothic style. The most intriguing prints, however, were deconstructed plaids and other, more abstract prints with a tribal feel. While last season's collection all stayed under $1,000, many of the coats in the fall collection looked far more expensive than that. If Theory is able to bring them in at less than $1,000, it will be quite a feat.
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It was a far cry from the crowds of hipsters that congregate around Milk Studios every Fashion Week. The scene at Carolina Herrera's Fall show, which took place on Monday morning at Lincoln Center, featured a reality TV star, a smattering of New York socialites, and Mad Men's Christina Hendricks, who worked the cameras in a (surprise, surprise) form-fitting Carolina Herrera dress. And from the looks of what came down the runway, we wouldn't be surprised if Hendricks showed up on a red carpet in these sometime soon. Herrera presented several signature looks: high-waisted skirts, velvets, fur accents, and elegant folds.
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For evening, Herrera delivered several beaded and embroidered dresses that added flair to her selection of separates. An elegant array of jewel tones came down the runway, including one black number with a plunging neckline that was downright sexy. Christina Hendricks, take note.
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Monique Lhuillier is known for her over-the-top dresses, mountains of tulle, rivers of fabric, and greats swaths of color—all, of course, wrapped neatly beneath a little bow. The collection she debuted on Monday was an elaboration on this concept but came, thankfully, with a little range. Lhuillier presented several elegant separate pieces—wool skirts and fitted blazers—each tied with velvet bows. Then there was the sexier, black-lace territory, and mini-dress explosions of colorful feathers before veering into eveningwear, where Lhuillier offered an elegant off-the-shoulder red satin dress and several black pieces with architectural beaded straps that wound up the neck. For Oscar fare, there were fancier offerings, a one-shouldered mesh dress with gold beading, and great feather bellskirts.
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