The models, and later the house’s creative director, Massimiliano Giornetti, circled on the oval runway to the beat of a military drum roll at Salvatore Ferragamo's Spring/Summer 2014 show on Sunday evening.
Yet aside from an elegant cream air-force-style jacket and a few utilitarian trench coats, there was little reference otherwise to anything air force or military. Perhaps the inspration was elegant ladies from yesteryear, waiting for their pilots to come home?
They waited, however, in sexy python heels and trenches or knee-high boots worn with a series of kilt-inspired pleated skirts, which dominated the lower half of the collection. Variations on the kilt look, some with asymmetrical cuts, others featuring pleating that began beneath a panel of cloth around the hips, swished as the models walked, like a Scotsman running to battle.
The standout of the collection was the designer's deconstruction of standard jacket cuts. One slim-fitting, lady-like one was held in place with two buttons around the middle. Or consider the piece de resistance, a black trench which swirled around the model, liked draped leather, cinched at the waist, looking as if it had been designed for a female James Bond. There was an elegant play on a bomber jacket; a see-through sportswear-inspired piece in the show’s dominant color of cream; a short raincoat thrown open to reveal what looked like a see-through knitted top; and boxy jackets with oversized silver button holes, providing just about the only decoration in the collection.
It was a timeless, refined collection with some modern touches -- like the funky skirts, sexy python looks, the occasional mannish jacket, and some looks showing just hint of midriff beneath.