At New York Fashion Week, Alice + Olivia, Hervé Léger, Anna Sui, and Veronica Beard Glam Up a Rainy Day
At NYFW, Alice + Olivia serves up green croc trenches, Victoriana punk boots, and black leather, and Hervé Léger’s creative boss tells his team: “Less bondage and more bandage!”
Alice + Olivia
Alice + Olivia designer Stacey Bendet always spins magic with her whimsical designs, and for Fall 2020 it was of a goth fairytale variety. Dark enchantment was everywhere: Boho princesses perched on ebony thrones, leather-clad models lounged in midnight gardens, and gold brocade was edgily accessorized with medieval chokers.
Of course, there were classic Bendet touches—riotously patterned maxidresses, cool-girl jeans, and lots of sparkles on lids and in hair—but her tougher turn was beguiling. Think green croc trenches, Victoriana punk boots, and a sumptuous black leather dress worthy of the Grammys. Add in a crowd full of Netflix ingenues and YouTube stars, and you have the giddiest of Fashion Week fantasias. Katie Baker
Hervé Léger’s infamous bandage dresses have seen a mini resurgence of late, thanks to Jennifer Lopez's Hustlers costumes and general noughties nostalgia. (Melania Trump also wore a metallic green bodycon number from the French design house on Christmas eve.) That said, with two years under his belt as Léger creative director, Christian Juul Nielsen has understandably tried to pull off a refresh.
The fall collection was presented on mannequins propped inside the penthouse of the NoMad hotel. Rest assured, real housewives: the designs are still skintight and unforgiving, though pieces have been updated just a bit with additions of fringe, lattice detailing, and trendy neon hues. Things don’t look exactly revolutionary, but the pieces were just different enough to show a healthy bit of growth. In Nielsen’s words, per a deliciously written press release, the goal was to “take bandage to the next level.” He also said, “I always tell my team: ‘less bondage and more bandage!’”
Sure, but the dresses are still very much made for popping bottles in the club. Still, with Kim Kardashian a sudden shape-wear entrepreneur, why change a thing? Alaina Demopoulos
If Anna Sui acts the way she designs, then she’s probably a lot of fun. Her pieces usually lean dreamily bohemian—long, free skirts and silky swaths of paisley are often sent down her runway—but things got a little dark for fall. There was the usual abundance of peasant dresses and crochet shawls, but done in moody blacks, leather, and crushed velvet. Goth Polly Pocket, if you will.
That point was driven home by a few models in all-black sequins and devil horned headpieces. Coco Rocha sat front row, and particularly loved the 1920s trumpet soundtrack, which she swayed back and forth to as model wearing a lush green fleece trounced by. Psychedelic pattern outerwear was a constant in the collection, so consider this Sui giving you permission to “turn on, tune in, drop out, stay warm” when things get chilly. AD
We Want It All was the title of Veronica Beard's show, and the collection revealed nothing less: from gingham to leather, floral, corduroy, glitter, and fringe. The fall 2020 collection was inspired by the brand’s signature focus: the real “MVPs,” the “cornerstones of your wardrobe,” and the “pieces you wear every day.”
It’s clear that designer duo Veronica Swanson Beard and Veronica Miele Beard share more than just the same name—the two have a knack for fusing together classic wardrobe staples with true eclecticism.
The sisters-in-law are celebrating the 10th anniversary of their brand, their creative energy evident in not only the variation of materials, textures, and patterns, but also in how cleverly they are styled together. There was a fringed teal-colored suede blazer partnered with a floral ankle-length ruffle skirt, and a gingham grey blazer covering a form-fitting leather bustier paired with mustard yellow leather pants. More glamorously, a long-sleeved tight black dress was enlivened by a stream of glitter fringe.
The power suit showed up in variations of corduroy, faded gingham glitter, and all-black, championing again that dazzling glitter fringe. In the collection, the Veronicas showed us that our 9 to 5 clothes can be more. They can represent “the journey of working toward something, dreams and possibilities, family and fulfillment.” Emma Tucker