When Francisco Costa was tapped as Women’s Creative Director at Calvin Klein in 2004, he already had an impressive resume: he had spent several years working with Oscar de la Renta, Tom Ford at Gucci, and at Balmain couture. Since then, he has built the brand into a global powerhouse—representing modern luxury and sophisticated minimalism. By 2006, Costa had won the CFDA’s award for Women’s Wear Designer of the Year—an accolade he won again in 2008. Here, he picks his favorite pieces—one from each year—from his 10 years at the helm of Calvin Klein.
This shirt dress has a wonderful sense of ease. It reminds me of an iconic photograph of Lisa Taylor lounging in a Calvin Klein dress that was shot by Helmut Newton in 1975. She looked natural and relaxed, yet confident and powerful.
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I love this look because it embodies effortless, yet sophisticated sportswear. The chic pant length felt very fresh and new that season -- and still looks modern today.
Dan Lecca/Courtesy of Calvin Klein
For my Spring 2006 collection, I explored volume and texture, which resulted in romantic silhouettes like this one. This season was a breakthrough moment for me, because people started looking at my work with a slightly different eye afterwards. It offered something different that they really appreciated and also gave them insight into my world, and how I think.
Dan Lecca/Courtesy of Calvin Klein
I referenced classic American sports for my Spring 2007 collection, which infused a fast and youthful energy in the clothes. This crocodile/latex coat epitomized the season’s athletic vibe mixed with luxury.
Dan Lecca/Courtesy of Calvin Klein
My design process involves a reductionist approach – using a process of elimination to abstract the essence of the clothes. In the case of this dress, I used very few seams to create a pure, clean, minimal silhouette. This look represents the modern concept of t-shirt dressing, which is fundamentally Calvin.
Dan Lecca/Courtesy of Calvin Klein
My Fall 2009 collection was inspired by woven patterns, which led to unique textures as seen in this intricate black shift dress. I am especially proud of this season, because a similar silhouette from the collection was featured in this year’s Costume Institute Benefit exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, which was very thrilling for me.
Dan Lecca/Courtesy of Calvin Klein
I love the sexiness of this all-black, sleek pant look. It truly speaks to the confident, modern Calvin Klein Collection woman. While she has evolved over the last decade, she has always had an edginess and sensuality about her.
Dan Lecca/Courtesy of Calvin Klein
This simple and elegant tunic, paired with a soft, easy pant represents my layered aesthetic. The long and lean silhouette has a relaxed, urban sophistication.
Dan Lecca/Courtesy of Calvin Klein
When Calvin first launched the company in 1968, it began as a women’s coat business. With outerwear being the foundation of our house, this timeless look is very emblematic to me.
Dan Lecca/Courtesy of Calvin Klein
I love this hourglass dress, because it signifies a pure celebration of femininity. I was so honored when Sarah Jessica Parker wore it for an event last year – she looked incredibly elegant and modern.
Dan Lecca/Courtesy of Calvin Klein
