BORDEAUX BURNS

World-Famous Wineries Menaced by ‘Zombie’ Fire Crisis

France’s wine country is facing a dangerous new threat as “zombie” wildfires return to life.

France’s famed Bordeaux wine country is facing a growing threat from wildfires that are spreading across Europe, with shifting winds and scorching temperatures putting vineyards on edge just weeks before harvest. “There is talk of zombie fires that keep coming back to life,” said Séverine Bonnie, who works at a château producing Pessac-Léognan wines, told the Financial Times. “The situation remains fragile so we are on edge.” More than 300,000 people have been forced to flee fires across France and Spain, including George and Amal Clooney. Greece has reported three firefighter deaths. But the southwest of France, including Bordeaux, is bearing the brunt of wildfires this month, with the country’s biggest blaze spreading across an area roughly four times the size of Paris. At Château Malartic-Lagravière, growers are watching the flames and winds closely. The estate sits just 10km from areas evacuated over the fire threat. But the danger is not limited to flames. Smoke can contaminate grapes with compounds that later produce harsh, smoky flavors in wine. Eric Serrano of France’s Vine and Wine Institute called the effect “a time bomb.” Meanwhile, Gilles Troullier told the Financial Times that nearly all of his nine-hectare vineyard has already burned. “It’s an irreplaceable wine-growing heritage that has burnt,” he said.